Should I hit the dealership or is there a site you con recommend? I'm coming from the Jeep world, so I new to this Yota stuff.
What year?Should I hit the dealership or is there a site you con recommend? I'm coming from the Jeep world, so I new to this Yota stuff.
What year?
If it 01-02, then I suggest LowRangeoffroad
They, say the are for 4runner, that is true, but they also work on early Seqoiua, and Tundra.
No problem. Ya, not alot for Seqoiua specifically, but 01-02 tundra, and 96-02 runner parts are the same. I've even see guys use certain Tacoma spindle that allows you to install Manual hubs. These are great rigs! You won't be disappointed. Also, if you plan on going off road a lot, your will need to install center diff lock switch, its a must!Thanks BTW
Yep! I already have that write up saved! I have lot to do to this thing to get it to my comfort. My 1997 Wrangler I built axles, tcase, and put a v8 in it. But I have a baby now, so I don't have time to trailer it to the places I crawl . So I plan on building the Seq to handle decent trails and still take the fam on road trips. So if you have any favorite mods or links feel free to shoot them my way!No problem. Ya, not alot for Seqoiua specifically, but 01-02 tundra, and 96-02 runner parts are the same. I've even see guys use certain Tacoma spindle that allows you to install Manual hubs. These are great rigs! You won't be disappointed. Also, if you plan on going off road a lot, your will need to install center diff lock switch, its a must!
Just upgraded my 2001 to 2004 you will needI did a little more research today and to change the LCA's and spindles to factory 04+ would be outrageously expensive. At $1,200+ I'd rather just figure out an alternative setup as you suggest Scott. I also found a shop in CA called Solo Motorsports that makes a spindle with a 1" lower uniball and heim joint for the steering. Could be a nice alternative
View attachment 502
Does the 2004 provide a "failsafe" design where the arm just doesnt fall down? Could you take a photo of your setup in the front?Just upgraded my 2001 to 2004 you will need
2x Lower control arms from Moog $100 each Amazon
2x Lower ball joint Beck Arnley $60 each Amazon
2x knuckles from wrecking yard $150 each came with 13wl upgraded calipers and rotors
2x wheel bearing and seals Timken RockAuto $157
Total Chaos spindle gussets $150 welded by Desolatemotorsports.com
2x tie rod ends moog $24 each Amazon
Alignment ...
2001 sequoia
Toytec bilstein 5100 coilovers 3 inch lift
Spc uca
1" Drop diff kit
Ome 2.5 rear lift springs
Toytec boss rear shocks
So this post and a few on some other forums have sufficiently scared the hell out of me. One of the first jobs I did when I bought this thing was to change all four ball joints, but now I'm concerned that even the new parts might not hold up. I went with Moog parts because of their reputation for building heavy duty, problem solver parts. Now I'm reading mixed reviews on the brand.
Can anyone weigh in on whether or not the Moogs are acceptable replacement parts? I've heard of both OEM and Moog failures, so it really is just a design problem ultimately.
I'm leaning heavily towards the Solo Motorsports solution. I just found out those guys are literally down the street from me, so I kinda have to go check them out now. I want to confidently drive this thing hard, and their parts look like what I need to do that.
Does the 2004 provide a "failsafe" design where the arm just doesnt fall down? Could you take a photo of your setup in the front?
I would rather pay $1200.00 than to drive with my family of eight and hit a bump and the car goes out of control cause my LCA dropped down. And i don't think its right that i have to look into buying a newer car...I was looking into a 2007 (which fixed this LCA design issue) but considering all of the custom work i did to my 2002.....makes my head hurt just thinking about this...
I changed my LCA recently with OEM and was inspecting them and the brakes while I was outside chiseling out the rust in the frame, prepping it for rust conversion and rubberizer later this week...the drop cloth must have weighed 40lbs in rust flakes and metal chips.
My 1995 Honda civic and 2006 rav4 don't even rust like this.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I am about to look into something serious like what i just found on solomotorsports site.my Moog parts didn't last 42k before needing replacement.
no direct bolt-on failsafe replacements available.
The best one can do is add redundancy and strength.
So my truck had the Revised design on it when i got it, i saw all the issues with failure so since i didn't know when they were last replaced i ordered new ones. But i didnt know that i had to order something other than the ones made for on 02 which is my year. I ended up receiving the Early design and im not satisfied at all with it. problem is i tossed the revised ones before i really noticed ( i know bonehead move) im trying to order the revised ones now but im not sure what part number or year.They are 17mm heads, (not sure of the actual bolt diameter) and yes they have a Square pattern. There was a redesign for the recall, but I cannot see a difference, with either of them torn apart. Might have been redesigned with a Grease fitting possibly, or tighter ball socket. As for the sankei. From my sources, they actually makes the OEM joints (reliable source, but not verified) In my opinion, they are all bound for failure because it was on engineering flaw on Toyota's part. They Obviously realized this and changed the design in 03, (starting with new chassis, LX470, and 4runner) followed by Tacoma, tundra, and sequoia as the new Generations were released.
In my opinion
Best Practice it to check and/or replace them regularly. I plan on changing my Sankei every 2 years, just to be certain, but I am also kinda hard on my Sequoia (meaning it sees a LOT of trail time). I just don't want to go through it EVER again, especially with my new Fenders and paint
Would like to eventually make conversion kit to the newer style. perhaps with new lower arms, and a reversed Mount. I have seen on guy who cut up an old Ball joint, and welded in Johnny joint, then used a large bolt.
Yes, this is True - Although, if engineered properly, the load would NOT be constantly trying to separate the control arm from the Spindle. If you look at the new Design, its almost impossible for them to separate. (they basically flipped the ball joint) as you can see, if the ball joint wears and fails, it will still remain connected to the hub.
New Design
Revised Design
Early Design
If you have an 2002, then you have the early design. They are not interchangeable. In order to use revised design, you must get 03+ spindless and LCA (lower control arms)So my truck had the Revised design on it when i got it, i saw all the issues with failure so since i didn't know when they were last replaced i ordered new ones. But i didnt know that i had to order something other than the ones made for on 02 which is my year. I ended up receiving the Early design and im not satisfied at all with it. problem is i tossed the revised ones before i really noticed ( i know bonehead move) im trying to order the revised ones now but im not sure what part number or year.
The only difference is the Dust boot.. that's it.Like i said both of those images are my truck. so obviously they do have ones that fit because they were on there when i got it. I really prefer the ones on the right over the ones i have now on the right. I did not change Lower control arms or anything else when we swapped the LBJ's.