MODIFICATION: T4R 13.3" Big Brake Upgrade
GOAL:
Replace the crappy OEM brakes with rotors and calipers from an 07 T4R Sport Edition that comes w/ 231mm 13WH calipers and (drum roll please) 338mm (13.3") rotors.
PURPOSE:
Pretty self explantory here. The OEM brakes...are shit. And mine were due for an overhaul. I had originally planned on doing the updated calipers for Tundra/Sequoias, but thanks to Scotty of
Addicted Off-Road who pioneered this mod (AFAIK), this was a better investment of my time and money.
MATERIALS:
2007 T4R 13WH Brake Calipers
2007 T4R 338mm Brake Rotors
2007 T4R Brake Pads
Brake Fluid
DURATION: 8 hours
COST: $380
HOW-TO:
Scotty had a great, detailed write-up over at
Expo. This post just expands on it with pictures. Everyone loves pictures, right?
First and foremost, all the hardware bolts on. The caveat is that you have to clearance the calipers, dust shield, and brake line. And these brakes are BIG. To stuff this, minimum 17" wheel is required and even then, it will depend wheel style, offset, and backspacing to clear the caliper.
My wheel choice yielded <3/4" between the caliper and inner rim and ~1/2" from the wheel spokes.
Before tearing into the brake system, I placed a wheel face down, placed the 338mm rotor into the wheel with caliper location mocked up to check clearances.
I assume you know how to do brake work, so I'm going to skip to the good stuff.
First, let's highlight the differences (aside from the caliper).
Before vs. After
View attachment 706
Caliper Flange Mount Thickness OEM vs. T4R 13WH
As you can see, the OEM flange is thicker by about 1/8".
View attachment 707
Rotor Diameter:
The rotor sports the 6x139.7 bolt circle and is of similar dimension to OEM.
View attachment 708
View attachment 709
Things you'll need to trim:
Dust shield (red):
View attachment 710
You'll also have to bend the shield back about 1/8". Otherwise, the rotor will make contact.
T4R Caliper:
After vs. Before (lol)
View attachment 711
Basically, you need to grind down the "pad" on the T4R caliper flange to sit flush w/ the rest of the flange. It's ~1/16" thick. I accomplished this by using a sharpie to mark the desired depth on the flange and grinded away using an angle grinder until all the shapie markings were gone. I, then, took a file to create a flat mounting surface.
View attachment 712
Additionally, I had to clearance the inner ears of the caliper to make room for the rotor (red). Compared to OEM, the T4R caliper is offset towards the inside of the sequoia. Grinded off ~<1/8" using a dremel w/ grinder attachment.
View attachment 713
Took me <10mins per caliper. Just make smooth, light passes. It's easier than it looks/sounds.
Bolted up to check for any more interferences:
Because the mounting flange is thinner than OEM, you'll find that the OEM mounting bolts will stick out past the spindle/steering knuckle mounting point. This is no cause for concern since there is adequate clearance from the rotor.
View attachment 714
You can reuse the OEM hardline.
WARNING! The way the brake hardline mounts to the T4R caliper, it comes dangerously close to hitting the coil/strut assembly at full steering lock, even at static ride height. I had to carefully bend and shape the hard line as close to the brake assembly to provide adequate clearance. I would suggest replacing the hardline w/ an aftermarket braided assembly that terminates to a banjo bolt.
For my setup, even with the hard line routed for clearance at static ride height, my COs will make contact w/ the hardline at full stuff with the steering locked. I will be replacing that hardline at a later time. For now, it clears while cruising around town.
All buttoned up:
View attachment 715
REMINDER: Bleed your brakes, lol.
Can't really give a before/after stopping distance comparison, but I can say this: Getting on the brakes will peel me out of my seat. And it certainly "feels" like it's stopping sooner. I am definitely getting more nose dive and recoil oscillation now.