2002 Limited 4WD

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Tailgate Molle Panel Storage System

GOAL:
Add an easily-accessible, modular, molle storage system on the hatch tailgate.

PURPOSE:
You would think that with all the ample room in the sequoia and the addition of the cargo box, I'd be content w/ my storage options. Well, you thought wrong, mister. I'm a fan of utilizing space efficiently. While the cargo box was a huge plus, getting to it can be a bit of a pain. I wanted an easy-access solution w/o having to lift the hatch for things like First Aid Kit, air hose, tire deflators, etc. The solution came in the form of a molle system mounted on the tailgate. With the rear window down, which is generally the case when I'm out and about, I could quickly access molle pouches w/ gear in it.

MATERIALS:
Grey Man Tactical Rigid Insert Panels - MOLLE (RIP-M) 15" x 25.75" x2
Misc Nylon spacers 1/4" & 1/2" thick
Misc nuts and bolts

DURATION: 2 hours

COST: $150

HOW-TO:
Grey Man has a lot of options for RIP-M sizes. I opted to get two of the above to fully cover the tailgate. The RIP-M panel is made of a type of polyethylene. Meaning, it's lightweight (@26oz) compared to metal MOLLE panels. Considering that this is being mounted on an overhead door propped up using gas struts, keeping the assembly and all hanging gear weight efficient was key.

The install is simple. I assume you know how to remove the rear panel cover. If not, look a few posts back regarding adding a remote rear window switch.

Steps:
  1. Remove tailgate panel
  2. Layout RIP-M panels and tape them down
  3. Drill holes
  4. Assemble
  5. Put everything back together
When I laid out the MOLLE panels, I chose to mount it as high on the tailgate as possible w/o creating any interferance. The reason for this is to minimize the added moment applied to the rear hatch door as a result of the added weight while in the open position. By minimizing the applied moment, you reduce the risk of the door sagging due to the weight of the stuff planned to be hung on the door.

What is the max weight limit of gear on the door? I have no idea.

But you bet your ass I'm gonna find out.

IMG_20170613_121316.jpg

I used the nylon spacers to create a space between the rear panel and the RIP-M. 1/4" spacers on the top and outer holes of the RIP-M and the 1/2" spacers in the lower and inner edges of the RIP-M. Without the spacers, you would not be able to slide the MOLLE straps thru the RIP-M while mounted on the rear panel. You could choose a spacing of your own specifications. I like to keep things tight and minimal profile.

IMG_20170613_121737.jpg

So what do I have on my rear panel?
  • ARB OBA Air Hose
  • ARB Tire Deflator w/ Gauge
  • Tire Deflators
  • Rip-Away First Aid Kit
  • 19mm Ratchet
  • Window Cover
  • Nitrile Gloves (lots of them)
  • Survival Knife
  • Assorted straps and bungee cords
I do have to "push" to get maximum extension out of the hatch. I'm guessing it's because the struts are OE, tired and needs replacement. I've always had to do that, but moreso after the addition of the MOLLE panel and gear. However, once up, the door stays up.

With the rear window down, accessing the FAK and air kit is a breeze, which was really the main priority of this system.

A place for everything and everything in its place.

Now to figure something out for the rearmost DS/PS windows...
 
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magcargo005

Active Member
Jun 26, 2017
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I'll keep this as a reference. I'm currently browsing 4WheelOnline for a suspension lift kit.
 

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Custom Rear Hatch Ladder

GOAL:
Make accessing the roof easier.

PURPOSE:
Nothing spells overland like a rear hatch ladder. But seriously speaking, accessing the roof was a pain. Especially when I have to get up there to add/remove brackets for luggage, snowboard rack, quickfists for shovels, etc. After GOBI customer service failed me, I got my money back and took it upon myself to build a ladder. Seemed simple enough, right? There were other factors other than crappy customer service. I was always concerned w/ the location of the GOBI ladder, fitment w/ the rear wing, and more often than not, it wasn't always plumb. With a custom ladder, I could mount it however I wanted it.

MATERIALS:
1" outer diamter PVC pipes + misc fittings
1" outer diameter tube stock, 17ft.
16ga metal sheet 12"x18"
10ga metal sheet 12"x18"
Misc bolts
Weatherproof double sided tape
Weatherstripping

DURATION: 20 hours

COST: $60

HOW-TO:
Normally, I'd take a lot of pictures, but this time, not so much. Honestly, I didn't think this was going to work, since this is my first real fabrication job and it was a real learning experience. I figured if it didn't work out, I lost out on the cost of some material and labor. I just kinda went along with it and built it in place and reworked things that didn't work.

Rough Steps:
  1. Mockup a ladder using the PVC tubing
  2. Bend steel tubes to match
  3. Bend/Cut sheet metal to make upper and lower attachment brackets
  4. Weld bracket
  5. Drill and tap for attachment hardware
  6. Weld tube to sheet metal brackets
  7. Weld tube steps to ladder
  8. Paint
Here's the initial fitment:
IMG_20170724_080547921_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170724_080727157_HDR.jpg

Initally, the upper mount was a 16ga bracket bent up from the hatch edge to meet the ladder bracket. The bracket is held in place using doube sided tape and it grabbed the edge of the upper hatch door. That didn't work. As you can see in the pic, the 16ga bracket sagged with the weight of the ladder and made contact with the rear wing. The pic was taken a day after I mounted everything up and I had put my weight on it.

Additionally, I had used the cheapest PVC tubing to mock up the ladder (to keep cost down). This was a mistake. It was not stiff enough to be used as a real template. As a result, my ladder welded together was 1/2" shorter than expected since the steel tube did not flex like the PVC mock up. Instead of using 1x ABS filler spacer on the bottom mount, I had to use 2x. The spacer was built in so I could fine tune the ladder height to suit my preferences. Although I did not expect to use 1" worth of filler just to make the ladder work.

My revised mount mock-up:
IMG_20170729_104809745.jpg

IMG_20170729_104820456.jpg

IMG_20170729_104755370.jpg

I reworked the bracket so that instead of bending upward, it sits flush w/ the hatch outer mold line (OML) still grabbing the edge of the upper door. For now, I'm using threaded stand-offs to figure out how much height I need to properly secure the upper ladder. Once I'm sure that it is right, I'll cut off the existing brackets on the ladder side and weld new brackets that have an extended length downward to meet the hatch bracket on the hatch OML. Instead of a floating type mount I was previously using, the weight of the ladder will rest on the hatch. I want to make sure this time it's right because bending 10ga sheet metal by hand is not fun.

Additionally, the upper bracket is tapered towards the door edge so that the ladder could be mounted as far left as possible. The limiting structure is the rear hatch door hinge. I could have slotted the bracket, but I did not want to sacrifice its ability to hold onto the ladder and the weight.

In hindsight, I should have bent tubes downward to rest on the hatch, but I'll make due with with what I've got since I don't want to pay more money to have tubes bent. Not to mention graft on the new pieces, shape, blend them together, and refinish the whole thing again.

The lower mount is secured to the hatch using clamping method on the lower hatch door edge. The clamping force uses a welded bracket assembly plus some hardware. The lower mount is intended to keep the ladder in place and not meant to take vertical load. All the load is meant to be taken by the upper mounts.
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
2017-08-003.jpg

Despite all the vigilance and care regarding the maintenance of the lower ball joints, I still fall victim to a failed lower ball joint (LBJ).

IMG_20170803_101247.jpg

These were "OEM" LBJs purchased from eBay, installed 3 months ago, with less than 5k miles on them, zero miles off road. The slug that bolts into the lower control arm completely sheared from the ball joint and housing.

Luckily for me, the ball joint sheared while pulling out of a parking spot and not while driving on the highway. Additionally, luck was still on my side. A shop 2 miles away from where I was stranded could get replacement parts and have me back on the road the same day. All in all, the cow walked away from a potentially catastrophic failure with just a misshapen fender. Lucky, indeed.

In the days prior to this failure, I was getting a very loud audible squeaking/groaning from under the car that was not dependent on the steering. I thought it was my steering rack going. I never thought it could have been the ball joints.

One thing to note. After the installation of these ball joints, the steering was notably stiffer. More resistant to turning than the previous pair.

With the replacements in, my front is quiet again...save except some groans from the Total Chaos upper control arms complaining to be rebuilt.

Lesson: Buy only genuine Toyota parts from Toyota dealers. Don't ignore squeaks from the front end.
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Rear Window Cover/Molle Storage

GOAL:
Make use of an, otherwise, wasted space.

PURPOSE:
While searching for methods to implement privacy coverings for the windows, I came across this image:

molle mount.jpg

I thought it was a heckuva idea. Seeing as I had a new welder that I wanted to play with, this was the ideal project. I would have liked to use a standard molle spec panel, but they don't exist for Sequoias (big surprise).

MATERIALS:
Display shelf
16ga sheet metal
Self-tapping screws
Paint stripper
Self-etching Primer
Paint

DURATION: 8 hours

COST: $20

HOW-TO:
Steps:
  1. Cut the shelf to appropriate dimensions to fit window recess
  2. Remove all trim pieces (can't get away from that and no way around it)
  3. Cut 16ga sheet metal into 1" strips
  4. Bend strips to contour window support surrounding body to make brackets
  5. Mockup brackets and mount it to the window sheet metal body
  6. Position shelf panel over mocked up brackets and mark the position where the shelf panel will be welded to the bracket
  7. Remove shelf panel
  8. Remove brackets
  9. Weld assembly together
  10. Check fitment by installing using self tapping screws
  11. Remove and re-finish
  12. Notch the trim pieces and put everything back together
This project was meant to be low cost. Most of the build materials I already had from previous projects. To start, I need some wire shelving. Scouring craiglist, I found a deal! A full shelf panel for $10 10 minutes away from where I live.

2017-06-14 16_29_05.jpg

So, I cut the panel to fit and then proceeded to remove the surrounding trim pieces to gain access to the window sheet metal body structure.

2017-07-30 09_51_01.jpg

Once exposed, I cut some strips, bent them to follow the shape of the surrounding window structure and mocked up the best locations for a mounting schema.

2017-07-30 12_27_04.jpg

Once I had the brackets positioned, I overlayed the shelf panel over the bracket extensions, marked where the brackets need to be welded to the panel and welded the assembly together.

The following pic is just after having welded 3 of 4 brackets and checking fitment with the excesses trimmed off.

2017-07-30 13_08_23.jpg

After completing the welded assembly, I cleaned the welds, stripped the paint to the bare metal, and refinished the panel using some self-etching primer and black paint. This part took the longest. I'd guess I spent a good 3-4 hours just stripping and cleaning the panel of all white paint. This was nasty stuff. I still have chemical burns on my arms where the stripper splash on me.

Here are some close up details of the shapes of the brackets...

2017-08-03 09_59_05.jpg

2017-08-03 09_59_11.jpg

After the finished panel was installed, I carefully notched the trim pieces to accept the new storage panel. I took my time with this part (2 hours) removing only the smallest necessary amount to able to remove/install at will.

2017-08-03 15_50_24.jpg

Cheers.
 
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Sal R.

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Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Lighting

GOAL:
Improve nighttime visibility.

PURPOSE:
A recent trip up the mountain in the dark to stargaze and watch the meteor shower had me rethinking my lighting. The trail I frequent was easy enough during the day, but at night, it got a little hairy trying to navigate thru the switchback with just the OEM lighting. I was going to wait until I had a front bumper, but that's going to be awhile, I think.

Despite the fact that I don't really wheel at night, this might not be the last time I take the opportunity to star gaze, either.

Coupled with the fact that winter is just around the corner, I thought that this might be the time to add some low level aux lighting for night trips and snow.

MATERIALS:
Rigid Industries 10" SR2 Hyperspot/Driving Combo Light
Rigid Industries D2 Dually Amber Driving Light
Relay and misc wiring

DURATION: 1 hour

COST: $550

HOW-TO:
I settled on the 10" Rigid Industries SR2 driving/hyperspot combo and the D2 Amber driving light for snow and dusty conditions. I didn't do the whole length of the bumper opening just because I wanted my light choices to be usable on my future bumper.

Removing the bumper skin is pretty simple.
  • Remove some M6 bolts hidden under the fender liner on the DS/PS and under the bumper holding the fender liners.
  • Remove misc push clips above and below bumper.
  • Disconnect the fog lights (if you have them).
  • Bumper just slides off.
They are wired independently so I can utilize them however they are needed. I added the lights onto my existing electrical framework (see previous posts) each on individual relays.

IMG_20170816_190250.jpg

Still looking at ditch lights solutions. I hear Rago Fab is doing cool stuff for the 1st gen Tundras...
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
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San Diego
After playing around with different tire deflators, I settled on the J.T. Brooks Pro tire deflators. Having tried the EZdeflators and Staun tire deflators, JTB was the easiest to work with. The best part is that they can be adjusted without the need of a compressor and a spare to set the pressure. This gave you the ability to set it on-the-fly depending on the conditions.

The process is simple, loosen lock ring, turn body to adjust psi setting (15psi), lock, & done.

I've deflated over half a dozen times and the deflation result was always 15-16psi. Contrast that to EZ and Staun, where the setting was good only the first few of times, then it needed to be set up again because it would miss its target psi. The Staun performed better than the EZ. Time-wise, it takes about 5-6 minutes. In that time, I can remove my swaybar links and be trail ready in under 15mins, less than half the time it used to take me, which includes removing the deflators and packing up the links and associated tools.

You get what you pay for...

IMG_20170816_193526.jpg
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Lighting (Round 2)

GOAL:
Improve nighttime visibility.

PURPOSE:
Add supplementary lights to the rear when backing up. Even with the IR reverse camera, things can be difficult to see. Let's face it, for $10, it's not that great a camera.

MATERIALS:
nilight LED Flood Lights
Relay and misc wiring

DURATION: 1 hour

COST: $30

HOW-TO:
To finish up this round of aux lighting, I added some cheapy nilight LED flood lights to supplement the rear lighting. I couldn't justify spending $$$ for something that is only utilized when I'm backing up.

lights21.JPG

This pair had the right dimensions that would enble it to fit in the empty recess of the OEM bumper reinforcement w/o having to cut metal. Cut a hole on the bumper cover and install.

EDIT: In hindsight, I wish I spaced them outboard out a little more. They are bright, but too much of the dispersed light is throw center and washes out the camera image.

lights22.JPG

I thought about enabling them when I was set to reverse, but instead, I settled on an independent switch so I could utilize them whenever needed.

For power, it is wired into my existing electrical framework.

EDIT: In hindsight, I wish I'd gone with something better. These lights don't do shit in whiteout snowy conditions.
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Light Switches

GOAL:
Aesthetically add switches for the auxilary lighting.

PURPOSE:
Real estate for switches is a premium in the Sequoia and I didn't want to spend premium $$$ for systems like SPOD or SwitchPros. It was too much money for what they were.

MATERIALS:
3/4" SPST Illuminated Mini Rocker Switch
OEM Tundra Fog Light Switch PN: 84160-0C010
Misc Wiring

DURATION: 2 hours

COST: $40

HOW-TO:
I put the auxilary lighting (light bar and rear lighting) on the simple illuminated switches and put the Rigid Amber D2 fog lights on OEM fog light switch from an 00-01 Tundra (PN: 84160-0C010). Picked up the switch on eBay for $30.

For the rocker switches, I mounted them on the blank next to the dimmer knob grouped together. I did have the grind down the housing 1/16" on the sides so that it would fit inside the blank plate. The switches are then glued together using two-part epoxy. I was real careful not to use too much so that it didn't jam the rocker operation of the switch.

The middle switch is blank for future growth. Maybe I'll use it for alley lights or something.

IMG_20170920_133944.jpg

Additionally, below are the details of the OEM fog light switch pinouts:

IMG_20170920_134005.jpg

Green: Illumination +12V
Green/Red: Signal +12V (to fog light relay)
White/Green: Ground
Yellow/Red: Source +12V

The switch creates an on/off circuit between the Green/Red & Yellow/Red lines.

The panel they are mounted on is simply clipped in. However, you have to remove the lower knee bolster to remove the panel. It just pops right out.
 
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duty

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Sep 19, 2017
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MY GOD I HAVE TO SAY NICEST SEQUIOA I SEEN ET !! THE DETAIL IS TO PERFECTION !! NEVER DID AN EXHAUST FOR IT I THINK IM GOING TO DO LONG TUBES FOR MINE STAINLESS !! DO YOU STILL HAVE THIS ? WOULD YOU EVER CONSIDER SELLING IT ?
 

duty

New Member
Sep 19, 2017
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WOW HAS BE THE SWEETEST SEQUIOA I EVER SEEN I HAVE 2002 DID A COLD AIR INTAKE AND THE T/B SPACER AND 2,5 LIFT AND AUDIO SYSTEM WITH SAME SUB NEXT IS THE LONG TUBE HEADERS AND FULL CAT BACK !! CURIOUS WHY YOU HAEVNT ? WOULD YOU EVER SELL YOUR TRUCK ?
 

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
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San Diego
MY GOD I HAVE TO SAY NICEST SEQUIOA I SEEN ET !! THE DETAIL IS TO PERFECTION !! NEVER DID AN EXHAUST FOR IT I THINK IM GOING TO DO LONG TUBES FOR MINE STAINLESS !! DO YOU STILL HAVE THIS ? WOULD YOU EVER CONSIDER SELLING IT ?

No exhaust, but it's on the list.

And thanks!
 

Shaun

Familiar Member
Jan 10, 2017
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Clackamas oregon
To finish up this round of aux lighting, I added some cheapy nilight LED flood lights to supplement the rear lighting. I couldn't justify spending $$$ for something that is only utilized when I'm backing up.

View attachment 850

This pair had the right dimensions that would enble it to fit in the empty recess of the OEM bumper reinforcement w/o having to cut metal. Cut a hole on the bumper cover and install.

View attachment 851

I thought about enabling them when I was set to reverse, but instead, I settled on an independent switch so I could utilize them whenever needed.

For power, it is wired into my existing electrical framework.

Look at you doing things right , I was bored waiting for a truck at work and used a pocket knife to cut the holes out lol
 

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Rock Sliders

GOAL:
Prevent more damage to the rocker panels.

PURPOSE:
Pretty self explanatory here. I've got a few scraps and minor dents on my rocker panels. Eventually, my luck is gonna run out.

MATERIALS:
Stubbs Welding Ultimate SKO Rock Sliders

DURATION: 2.5 hours

COST: $800 with Installation

SYNOPSIS:
Had a local shop weld the slider on. They even painted it gloss black. I decided on the Ultimate simply because I wanted something different that everyone else. Yes, the HD-SKO is tried and true, but the Ultimate SKO were just calling out to me. And I'm glad I did it. They look fantastic.

These sliders are beefy weighing in at 92 lbs total. I definitely feel it in the skinny pedal. Even w/ 4.56s, there is a bit of drag due to the additional weight.

The package came w/ sliders and scab plates only. No gussets. Based on everything I've read, it should be okay. Just looking the frame sub structure (from an engineering standpoint), it's high likely the frame will deform before the slider give way. Frame metal is thiiiiiiin....

IMG_20171010_140707.jpg

IMG_20171010_140650.jpg

IMG_20171010_160343.jpg

The kickout sticks out about 1" past the tire.
IMG_20171010_154033826_HDR.jpg

IMG_20171010_154345654.jpg
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
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San Diego
MODIFICATION: Maxtrax II Mounting Brackets

GOAL:
Mount the traction boards securely and unobtrusively.

PURPOSE:
Custom roof rack requires custom brackets. I didn't want those dirty ass things inside my cab, as well. Additionally, I didn't want to pay $50 for something like Rhino Rack's offering on top of the cost of the Maxtrax mounting pins. And, it had to be loooooooow profile. That's a lot of requirements.

MATERIALS:
Maxtrax Mounting Pins
Aluminum strap 1.5"x48"
M4x0.7 bolts x16
80/20, Inc. 10-series T-nuts

DURATION: 2 hours

COST: $45

HOW-TO:
Thanks to my rack design, making custom brackets is easy, but it did take some math.

Some notes:
Required Rack Length: 31-7/8"
Maxtrax Inboard Pin-to-Pin Length: 34-15/16"
Pin base diameter: 1"
Mounting pin diameter: 5/8"
Crossbar length: 2"

To make all the brackets the same dimensions, the measurements above yielded a bracket length ~6" long.

Nothing to it really:
  1. Cut metal strap ~6" long.
  2. Drill mounting pin hole using drill press
  3. Drill crossbar mounting hole using drill press
  4. Paint and clear coat.
But before I go thru the trouble of shaping and finishing metal, a proof of concept (using scraps) would be nice to make sure the intended design works out.

IMG_20171010_154227092_HDR.jpg

IMG_20171009_174705124.jpg

It fits! And nice and low too!
IMG_20171010_154106204.jpg

With the concept working, I shaped and finished the following brackets:

IMG_20171019_114259.jpg

IMG_20171019_114354.jpg
 
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