Just got a 2001 Ltd tree w/110K. New to the forum so maybe this topic appears somewhere already. I already have "only" 3-4 hours invested. These model specific forums tend to be a treasure trove of information by enthusiasts. Need to make a few more posts before I can show you.
Since I only had a smattering of CarFax related service records, I decided to put a TON of work into establishing a baseline to know with certainty where I stand. The list of work done is very long, and will only summarize hi-points here. My impeccable service records log is already about 30 pages long. My unit looks to have spent a fair bit of its former life in a garage. I don't believe the frame was ever replaced, but compared to some I saw while searching (and rejecting due to excessive rot), it looks pretty good and believe it was undercoated (factory recall work?). Still had some rust, so I went to town with power and hand brushes after washing, rust proofing, and reapplication of undercoating. This included some sheet metal, frame, and suspension and drive bits. The body has only very minute rust spots in a couple places. I replaced every fluid, except for transmission and coolant, which were drain/fill. Once so far on tranny, but did six so far on the coolant (because the engine draincocks were too tight and I did not want to risk breakage) starting with two refills of just distilled (to temp with heaters running), followed by drain/fills to get the concentration back. Brake job with full system bleed and painted calipers, siphon/fill ATF in PS, of course oil/filter, front diff, transfer, rear diff, lube drive shaft and other suspension bits, washer reservoir repair, clean MAF and AF, new plugs, detailed engine bay, interior, and paint correction using a new dual action Li polisher. What a job that was. I don't think the roof had ever been done in 20 years. The whole paint was completely oxidized, but appears to have been accident free (corroborated by CarFax). I have the serpentine in hand (belt slightly squeaks), and need to order the Aisan timing belt/H2O pump/pulleys kit. I got a quote from a local for $700 with my parts/fluids. I may go that route, even though I could likely do it myself if I made a harmonic balancer tool. I did pull the TB covers enough to at least see the back side that had no discernible cracks FWIW, so I think I can delay it some. Kind of tight right now. I just recently (6/21) bought a '14 Tundra Ltd (expensive!), before I came across the tree, as I need to be able to tow 5K, but with this tree, I am thinking I will sell it to recover the $ once the tree shows me reliability over this winter. Other: newly installed LED interiors, just put on LED Sealight headlights, in the process of fixing the burnt out drive LED (order wrong ones, so the cluster is on the table), and a Tekonsha Brake Controller, touch screen stereo with Apple Carplay, BT, and Backup Cam is on the way, along with a sub/amp. Have not had time to test the stock speakers yet. Also new spare tire installed on the refurb'ed spare tire mechanism, and I removed the 2nd and 3rd rows and installed a generic Bedrug custom cut to fit. I don't need 8 passenger seating. The leather in this one has no rips, but typical cracking I treated. I may replace the driver seat bottom. I intend to use this more like a van (just sold) than SUV, but glad it has 4WD. I live in MD, so the winters are not that bad, though we are overdue for a big one. This one lived its whole life in VA and MD around Wash DC. That plus likely garaging, and the mentioned previous undercoating is what probably preserved this 20 yo beauty. It almost looks new now, especially since doing the correction. What a PITA. It was a five stage process to get it to shine like it does.
Brings me to the subject. When I went to (and just "completed") the LED headlights, I previously did not note the lack of the rubber boots. A PO (doofus) must have shredded them trying to replace a lamp, or possibly decided they weren't needed. I want to purchase new ones to seal the beams. I hope I do not have to buy a whole assy to get those, as I already polished/restored the OEM ones. I know for some Honda M/C OEM parts, some good discount places that have exploded diagrams and every part there is. Hoping to find the same here.
Since I only had a smattering of CarFax related service records, I decided to put a TON of work into establishing a baseline to know with certainty where I stand. The list of work done is very long, and will only summarize hi-points here. My impeccable service records log is already about 30 pages long. My unit looks to have spent a fair bit of its former life in a garage. I don't believe the frame was ever replaced, but compared to some I saw while searching (and rejecting due to excessive rot), it looks pretty good and believe it was undercoated (factory recall work?). Still had some rust, so I went to town with power and hand brushes after washing, rust proofing, and reapplication of undercoating. This included some sheet metal, frame, and suspension and drive bits. The body has only very minute rust spots in a couple places. I replaced every fluid, except for transmission and coolant, which were drain/fill. Once so far on tranny, but did six so far on the coolant (because the engine draincocks were too tight and I did not want to risk breakage) starting with two refills of just distilled (to temp with heaters running), followed by drain/fills to get the concentration back. Brake job with full system bleed and painted calipers, siphon/fill ATF in PS, of course oil/filter, front diff, transfer, rear diff, lube drive shaft and other suspension bits, washer reservoir repair, clean MAF and AF, new plugs, detailed engine bay, interior, and paint correction using a new dual action Li polisher. What a job that was. I don't think the roof had ever been done in 20 years. The whole paint was completely oxidized, but appears to have been accident free (corroborated by CarFax). I have the serpentine in hand (belt slightly squeaks), and need to order the Aisan timing belt/H2O pump/pulleys kit. I got a quote from a local for $700 with my parts/fluids. I may go that route, even though I could likely do it myself if I made a harmonic balancer tool. I did pull the TB covers enough to at least see the back side that had no discernible cracks FWIW, so I think I can delay it some. Kind of tight right now. I just recently (6/21) bought a '14 Tundra Ltd (expensive!), before I came across the tree, as I need to be able to tow 5K, but with this tree, I am thinking I will sell it to recover the $ once the tree shows me reliability over this winter. Other: newly installed LED interiors, just put on LED Sealight headlights, in the process of fixing the burnt out drive LED (order wrong ones, so the cluster is on the table), and a Tekonsha Brake Controller, touch screen stereo with Apple Carplay, BT, and Backup Cam is on the way, along with a sub/amp. Have not had time to test the stock speakers yet. Also new spare tire installed on the refurb'ed spare tire mechanism, and I removed the 2nd and 3rd rows and installed a generic Bedrug custom cut to fit. I don't need 8 passenger seating. The leather in this one has no rips, but typical cracking I treated. I may replace the driver seat bottom. I intend to use this more like a van (just sold) than SUV, but glad it has 4WD. I live in MD, so the winters are not that bad, though we are overdue for a big one. This one lived its whole life in VA and MD around Wash DC. That plus likely garaging, and the mentioned previous undercoating is what probably preserved this 20 yo beauty. It almost looks new now, especially since doing the correction. What a PITA. It was a five stage process to get it to shine like it does.
Brings me to the subject. When I went to (and just "completed") the LED headlights, I previously did not note the lack of the rubber boots. A PO (doofus) must have shredded them trying to replace a lamp, or possibly decided they weren't needed. I want to purchase new ones to seal the beams. I hope I do not have to buy a whole assy to get those, as I already polished/restored the OEM ones. I know for some Honda M/C OEM parts, some good discount places that have exploded diagrams and every part there is. Hoping to find the same here.