1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

2006 White SR5

Discussion in '1Gen Sequoia Build Threads' started by mulze42, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Per Sal's advice I swapped out my rear Bilstein 5100s which are meant for an FJ Cruiser with Dobinson GS59-685s. This was a quick install, it took about 2 hours total for me as this was my first time replacing shocks so I wanted to make sure it was performed correctly.

    Cost - $250

    As a note I have seen some people installing pieces of equipment onto their trucks without using the proper torque specs. So please referr to the 2005 Repair Manual that you can find posted either here or on Tundra Solutions when installing new items. I will say though that I wasn't able to get my torque wrench on the top of the shock to tighten down the nut but since its asking for 43 ft-lbf, I hand tightened it.

    The proper install for washers and bushings are as follows (based on a reference I got from Sal)

    From top of shock:

    Washer
    Upper bushing
    Washer
    Car shock mount sheet metal
    Washer
    Lower bushing
    Washer

    When installing I used some silicone lubricant to help make everything a little bit smoother and overall installation was really smooth.

    The truck seems to actually perform a lot better, it doesn't seem as stiff going over bumps and I'm really happy Sal found this out and was able to provide me a better ride in the process.

    IMG_0193.JPG IMG_0192.JPG
     
  2. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Heater T's and hose replacement for Heating & AC - Water Piping

    Type:
    Preventative Maintenance (every 100k or so)

    Summary: I frequent ih8mud just observing the 100-Series forums because if I didn't have a Sequoia I would have a 100-Series and because they also have the 4.7L V8 like us first gens. Anyways if one spends time on their forum a lot of people run into their heater t's failing and if not caught quickly enough it can completely ruin your engine. The install is pretty straight forward and I would recommend that if you were to replace the heater t's to also replace the connecting hoses too (you can most likely use the same constant torque clamps) because who knows when they were done last. One thing to note, my truck has rear heat/ac controls so there are two hoses on there that would differ if you do not have rear heat/ac controls.

    Cost: $197.00 (Could have been cheaper if I went through only Norwalk Toyota and used their Mud discount)

    Time:
    ~2 hours
    BOM:
    • 8724860460 - Qty x2 (Heater T's)
    • 872450C170 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Outlet B)
    • 872450C110 - Qty x1 (Hose, Rear Heater Water Outlet, D)
    • 872450C100 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Outlet A) ** (Different p/n if no rear AC controls)
    • 872450C060 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Inlet B)
    • 872450C070 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Inlet A) ** (Different p/n if no rear AC controls)
    • 872450C080 - Qty x1 (Hose, Rear Heater Water Inlet, A (From Engine)
    Instructions (I recommend do it this way):
    • Loosen all clamps from hoses that connect to engine and truck piping. (I used a vice grip, needle nose, and hose clamp pliers in different capacities to get them off).
    • Cut hoses off ends that connect to engine and truck piping and remove. (Have cup ready to collect coolant. You'll get about a red solo cup's worth out)
    • Pull out assembly and assemble new heater t's and hoses in same configuration that you have replaced.
    • Place all clamps into necessary positions. (A tip is that when you put them back on arrange them so they are easier to access next time).
    • Place hose connections back on engine and truck piping.
    • Replace coolant back into reservoir.
    • Turn on truck and run heater on hot and check for leaks.
    ** Warning if your t's do crumble and you decided to only replace those and not the hoses please be warned that pieces of plastic might fall into the tubing and you will have to fish them out**


    IMG_0128.JPG IMG_0129.JPG IMG_0130.JPG IMG_0247.JPG IMG_0248.JPG IMG_0220.JPG IMG_0249.JPG a1_874438B.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
    BenK likes this.
  3. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    I was, literally, just looking into this issue too.

    Thanks for the BOM.
     
  4. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    No problem. I didn't find any records on mine being replaced and there seemed to be some coolant bubbling around them slightly so when I took mine off my T's were in pretty good shape but better to be safe than sorry.
     
  5. magcargo005

    magcargo005 New Member

    Interesting build progress. I like your project, man.
     
    mulze42 likes this.

Share This Page