1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

2006 White SR5

Discussion in '1Gen Sequoia Build Threads' started by mulze42, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Per Sal's advice I swapped out my rear Bilstein 5100s which are meant for an FJ Cruiser with Dobinson GS59-685s. This was a quick install, it took about 2 hours total for me as this was my first time replacing shocks so I wanted to make sure it was performed correctly.

    Cost - $250

    As a note I have seen some people installing pieces of equipment onto their trucks without using the proper torque specs. So please referr to the 2005 Repair Manual that you can find posted either here or on Tundra Solutions when installing new items. I will say though that I wasn't able to get my torque wrench on the top of the shock to tighten down the nut but since its asking for 43 ft-lbf, I hand tightened it.

    The proper install for washers and bushings are as follows (based on a reference I got from Sal)

    From top of shock:

    Washer
    Upper bushing
    Washer
    Car shock mount sheet metal
    Washer
    Lower bushing
    Washer

    When installing I used some silicone lubricant to help make everything a little bit smoother and overall installation was really smooth.

    The truck seems to actually perform a lot better, it doesn't seem as stiff going over bumps and I'm really happy Sal found this out and was able to provide me a better ride in the process.

    IMG_0193.JPG IMG_0192.JPG
     
  2. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Heater T's and hose replacement for Heating & AC - Water Piping

    Type:
    Preventative Maintenance (every 100k or so)

    Summary: I frequent ih8mud just observing the 100-Series forums because if I didn't have a Sequoia I would have a 100-Series and because they also have the 4.7L V8 like us first gens. Anyways if one spends time on their forum a lot of people run into their heater t's failing and if not caught quickly enough it can completely ruin your engine. The install is pretty straight forward and I would recommend that if you were to replace the heater t's to also replace the connecting hoses too (you can most likely use the same constant torque clamps) because who knows when they were done last. One thing to note, my truck has rear heat/ac controls so there are two hoses on there that would differ if you do not have rear heat/ac controls.

    Cost: $197.00 (Could have been cheaper if I went through only Norwalk Toyota and used their Mud discount)

    Time:
    ~2 hours
    BOM:
    • 8724860460 - Qty x2 (Heater T's)
    • 872450C170 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Outlet B)
    • 872450C110 - Qty x1 (Hose, Rear Heater Water Outlet, D)
    • 872450C100 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Outlet A) ** (Different p/n if no rear AC controls)
    • 872450C060 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Inlet B)
    • 872450C070 - Qty x1 (Hose, Heater Water, Inlet A) ** (Different p/n if no rear AC controls)
    • 872450C080 - Qty x1 (Hose, Rear Heater Water Inlet, A (From Engine)
    Instructions (I recommend do it this way):
    • Loosen all clamps from hoses that connect to engine and truck piping. (I used a vice grip, needle nose, and hose clamp pliers in different capacities to get them off).
    • Cut hoses off ends that connect to engine and truck piping and remove. (Have cup ready to collect coolant. You'll get about a red solo cup's worth out)
    • Pull out assembly and assemble new heater t's and hoses in same configuration that you have replaced.
    • Place all clamps into necessary positions. (A tip is that when you put them back on arrange them so they are easier to access next time).
    • Place hose connections back on engine and truck piping.
    • Replace coolant back into reservoir.
    • Turn on truck and run heater on hot and check for leaks.
    ** Warning if your t's do crumble and you decided to only replace those and not the hoses please be warned that pieces of plastic might fall into the tubing and you will have to fish them out**


    IMG_0128.JPG IMG_0129.JPG IMG_0130.JPG IMG_0247.JPG IMG_0248.JPG IMG_0220.JPG IMG_0249.JPG a1_874438B.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
    BenK likes this.
  3. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    I was, literally, just looking into this issue too.

    Thanks for the BOM.
     
  4. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    No problem. I didn't find any records on mine being replaced and there seemed to be some coolant bubbling around them slightly so when I took mine off my T's were in pretty good shape but better to be safe than sorry.
     
  5. magcargo005

    magcargo005 New Member

    Interesting build progress. I like your project, man.
     
    mulze42 likes this.
  6. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Title: Sal's Custom Roof Rack Install



    Type: Project



    Summary: Utilizing inspiration from Sal's low profile rack I decided to come up with my own solution using 1530 8020 bars and their associated brackets. This allows for M8 bolts and accessories to be used meaning I can use Front Runner accessories with little to no modification.

    One thing I tried to do was use my CNC to create the risers. This was a lot of development time I think about 40 hours total which included CAD the spacers, test cut the spacers in foam, and then cut the final spacers. The final cut time was 18 hours total using seaboard which is similar to starboard which is a marine grade, uv resistant HDPE and it machines great.



    Cost:

    Budget: $400 based on the cost of Sal's build of about $450

    R&D Final cost: $387.59

    Ideal build cost: $318.60 using lessons learned

    IMG_0284.JPG IMG_0283.JPG IMG_0285.JPG IMG_0242.JPG IMG_0259.JPG IMG_0260.JPG Screen Shot 2018-07-03 at 13.04.09.png

    Lessons Learned:

    • Use all Stainless Steel hardware - limits rust and oxidation
    • ABS plastic will create noxious fumes and melt. I found seaboard to fit my needs.
    • Create spacers that match the outside of the covers and not just the inside. I will be redoing my spacers a bit.
    • Place the rails back on first and then put the 1530 8020 for perfect fit.
    • Use drop-in T-nuts. They are about $1.25 per nut but they are totally worth it.
    • So far wind noise hasn't been bad but will design a wind fairing soon.
     
  7. cjet427

    cjet427 New Member

    Funny, I ordered the replacement Ts and they're sitting in my glove compartment now, but mine looked in such good shape without taking the hoses off that I'm debating even switching them out. The plastic hasn't even lost it's glossiness and my Sequoia's at 190k.

    I agree with your reasoning though. I was gun-ho on a 100 series and even test drove a LX470, but ended up with a Sequoia for a multitude of reasons. Hearing about the heater Ts on the 100 series was a scary wakeup call, but it's hard for me to even mess with it when they look absolutely perfect as-is.

    Also, I absolutely love your idea for the 8020 roof rack, piggybacking off Sal's original design. Doing a rack like that has been high on my wish list, and your design seems very simple. I was thinking about putting some ABS plastic in the grooves between each rail to make a complete platform, so that I could stand, put some folding chairs, or even a cot tent up there as a DIY roof top tent. In theory, if the plastic fits tight in the groove, I could see it helping to distribute the load between multiple rails, and prevent excessive bowing of any one individual rail when I'm standing on it.

    Anyway, awesome stuff. I'm finishing up a few things on my '06 Limited and will be making a build thread soon. I've been creeping on the FB group for too long haha.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
  8. cjet427

    cjet427 New Member

    Also, if you're redoing the risers, would you be interested in selling the old ones or making me a redesigned set? (will pay for them, obviously)
     
  9. mulze42

    mulze42 Member


    Hey cjet427. I'm with you on the glossiness but from looking at some of the guys 100's on MUD and the fact that they looked ok and then completely fail I didn't want to take the chance but it does seem that 1st gens don't have this issue like the 100's do.

    In regards to the roof rack, if I was to do the ABS plastic idea I'd look to make a solution more like Front Runner's or Prinsu's which I think use like a mesh grate instead but if you are confident in it I say go for it. But I'm around 240 right now and I'm confident that I can stand on one of these single bars and not worry about it too much. These things are insanely strong and rigid.

    Also, I could probably get you a pair, I would want to get you the better design though as it is starting to drive me mad with the space on them. Is there a timeline in which you would like to get this done? If you PM me with your info we can talk more.
     
  10. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Installed my ARB diff breather today that's been sitting on the shelf for about 9 months. Wanted to get done after the frame was done but was too cold out and then ran into time issues.

    Took about 2 hours and ran the line along the driver side on the brake lines. Install went very smoothly though.

    Don't mind the rust in the pics. In fact act like it doesn't even exist.

    IMG_0365.JPG IMG_0366.JPG IMG_0367.JPG IMG_0368.JPG
     
  11. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Roof Rack Tie Downs

    So I took inspiration from Front Runner and made up some tie-down attachment points for my roof rack. These use drop-in t-nuts for easy maneuverability. They came out to about $5.83/each though if you did some digging around on Amazon I'm sure you could get the cost down drastically.

    BOM:
    Qty x5 M8 Lifting Ring Eye Bolts - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHGH0CM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3OHEHR70TIKUY&psc=1

    Qty x5 M8 Stainless Steel Drop-in t-nuts from T-Nutz - https://www.tnutz.com/product/db-01...stainless/?attribute_pa_thread-size=m8-x-1-25

    Qty x5 5/16" Nylon or Neoprene Washers (I don't remember which material but they came from Ace Hardware)

    Qty x5 M8 Stainless Steel lock washers

    Qty x5 M8 Stainless Steel washers

    IMG_0377.JPG IMG_0381.JPG IMG_0383.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
  12. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Roof Rack Bike Mount

    I had this bike mount for an fork mounted carrier inside the truck but the method didn't work out too well so I ended up putting it on the roof. However, since the truck is so dang high up there and I don't have a ladder or running boards (need to add sliders) I think I might start looking for a hitch mount carrier.

    Anyways I've used it once and it was rock solid. Unfortunately I don't have pics of it mounted but the wheel sat nicely between the final two bars and I just used a bungee cord to secure the back tire from swaying back and forth.

    BOM: Final Cost around $20
    Qty x1 Fork Bike Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO7GRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    (Drill Bike Mount holes to accept M8 or 5/16" bolts to work with the 1530 bars. If using 1020 bars then no modification needed and use 1/4" or M6 for all attachments)

    Qty x2 M8 x 20mm Stainless Steel Hex Bolt

    Qty x2 M8 Stainless Steel Washers

    Qty x2 M8 Stainless Steel Nuts

    IMG_0382.JPG
     
  13. Whocares

    Whocares Member

    How's it going? Nice build. What type of arb diff breather did you purchase?
     
  14. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

  15. Whocares

    Whocares Member

    Thanks man. Should have known; used them on other trucks.

    How did you mount your fire extinguisher?

    By the way, did you notice any differences once the new frame was installed? Ride quality, less noises, etc? That's awesome getting a free, brand new frame.
     
  16. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    For the fire extinguisher there is a panel that is right above the cup holder that when you peel back reveals a M6 (I think) bolt that helps to keep the panel in place. I removed that bolt and replaced it with a 3" Quick Fist clamp https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HOKW50/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and an M6 x 40mm bolt. Again I think those are the sizes for the bolts. And then the fire extinguisher fit perfectly into the cup holder.

    As for the frame I was trying to think about that last night and I'm not sure. The reason why, I'm not sure is that it came in stock height and along with the frame it got a lift and some other things done to it. But it does drive pretty smoothly now though I think that the rack and pinion need to be replaced. But lately I've had more stuff done to it like fluid flush, new UCAs, brakes that had to be completely re-done, brake lines failed after brakes were done due to rust that it does seem to handle a lot better now.
     
  17. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    First time sleeping in the truck. Need to make some improvements like screens for the windows and an awning system to have some personal space to change but overall it was a good experience.

    Used a Exped Mega Mat Duo for the mattress.

    IMG_0395.JPG IMG_0396.JPG
     
    1stgenoffroad likes this.
  18. 1stgenoffroad

    1stgenoffroad Member

    Love that G wheel sticker "mod".
     
    mulze42 likes this.
  19. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Ha! Thanks! It gives it easily 10 extra HP so totally worth it.
     
  20. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Roof Rack Ghetto Snowboard / Ski / Fishing Rod Holder

    So in prep for an upcoming trip and the future I wanted to be able to store my fishing rods on the outside of the truck because space is so limited inside of it...... (please laugh here). Anyways, I wasn't willing to fork over $198.00 to Front Runner. I'm not that rich yet so I've decided to go the DIY route. I think it came out decent and after its all said and done it will come out to be about $80. The yakima ski racks and thule racks are expensive even used! The price breakdown is as follows:

    Used Yakima Sportskis - $20
    Yakima SKS core lock and keys (yet to purchase) - $40
    SS hardware and aluminum angle - 1/16"x1" - $20 (I have now found that using Menards for SS metric hardware is my cheapest option).

    Overall I think it came out well for a first time. Don't mind one of the holes... sometimes I speed through things. I did have to shave down some of the plastic by the latch because it goes below the components themselves to unlatch but a quick dremel and I was done. Let me know if any questions!

    20180725_221126633_iOS.jpg 20180725_220441672_iOS.jpg 20180727_175030276_iOS.jpg 20180727_175040507_iOS.jpg
     

Share This Page