2003 Toyota Sequoia

jwaring66

Active Member
Apr 3, 2017
30
27
18
43
Live in KC, play in AR
SR5 with all options (leather, sun roof, JBL, etc)
We are a Toyota family with roughly a dozen different Toyota trucks/SUV's owned between me and my father in the last 20 years. Truck was purchased new by my father in 2003. He put about 65k highway miles on it, always garaged and only driven in the summer (family lake wagon). I bought it from him when we had our 3rd child. I daily drove it for a couple years. Didn't really have any intention of modding it but I've owned 4Runners, a Jeep and a handful of Toyota trucks (2001 Tundra, 1996 Tacoma, 2000 4Runner, 2015 Rav4- wifes ride), one Powerstroke and a Duramax which I still own. All of which I've done some form of suspension work and larger tires on (besides the Rav). Sooo, you know how the story goes... I started seeing more guys lifting these, setting them up for Overlanding, etc. Found Jim Smola on Instagram and here we are. Currently has 92k and I have recently done the following:
  • Timing belt, water pump, new spark plugs and coolant (performed by independent Toyota shop I trust)
  • VSC Yaw rate and decel sensor were replaced (also done by shop)
I personally have done the following:
  • 20% tint on front windows
  • Added a rear hatch spoiler like the Limited's have
  • Replaced rear hatch handle that broke
  • Replaced driver side inside door handle that split
  • Truck has always had synthetic oil but did the front/rear diff and t-case with Mobil1
  • Several pan drain/fills on the trans with Toyota T-IV
  • Added a Yakima cross bar set for canoes, kayaks and cargo carrier
  • Front and rear brakes with new rotors and pads
  • Replaced the steering rack bushings with Energy Suspension parts
  • New sway bar front end links with poly bushings (one broke a few months back)
  • While I was in there- figured I'd throw on a Toytec BOSS system (Toytec front adjustable coilovers set at ~2.5". Rear has OME 862's with Toytec stocks).
  • Diff drop that came with suspension
  • CV boot mod- used HD zip ties to hold inner boots
  • Added some 285/70's on factory alloys
  • 1.25" Spidertrax spacers in front Trailgears in the rear
  • Alignment at Toyota dealer after lift
On the to-do list:
  • UCA's with new bushings/ball joint
  • Lower ball joint with 04 lower control arm and bushings
  • Inner and outer steering links when needed
  • Some type of sliders and skids
  • Front winch/bumper setup
  • 285 spare
  • Rear locker and maybe gears at some point
  • I may have to wrap it because the paint is literally showroom perfect and I'm not sure I can put the first scratch on it.
That's about it, for now... haha
BT3.jpg BT4.jpg IMG_5208.JPG BTd.jpg BTa.jpg BTb.jpg IMG_5231.JPG IMG_5190.JPG IMG_5258.JPG IMG_5901.JPG
 
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jwaring66

Active Member
Apr 3, 2017
30
27
18
43
Live in KC, play in AR
What is the CV boot mod?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Pull the small clamp off the inner boot and stretch it down the half shaft a tiny bit so the larger ribs don't ride on each other. If they rub all the time it will wear a groove where they touch and eventually will split the rubber in that area. There's one pic above that shows the gap between that largest rib and the joint housing at ride height.
 

1stgenoffroad

Active Member
Aug 21, 2017
34
9
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www.1stgenoffroad.com
Nice setup! 3 questions: 1. Did you break a sway bar link there? I did the same thing! 2. Did you ditch the front skid plate after you installed the diff drop? I just installed my front 1" diff drop. Now can't get the skid plate back on. I was planning just to cut the plate where is presses against the new bolts. But after looking at your rig, I might just skip it altogether. What do you think? 3. How much lift did you get out of those ARB 2862 springs on the back? 2 inches? I just ordered those and they're on their way. I used the Bilstein 5100 adjustable on the front. Have it set to the 3rd setting. I might go up though, if it's too nose down after the rear lift.
 
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jwaring66

Active Member
Apr 3, 2017
30
27
18
43
Live in KC, play in AR
Nice setup! 3 questions: 1. Did you break a sway bar link there? I did the same thing! 2. Did you ditch the front skid plate after you installed the diff drop? I just installed my front 1" diff drop. Now can't get the skid plate back on. I was planning just to cut the plate where is presses against the new bolts. But after looking at your rig, I might just skip it altogether. What do you think? 3. How much lift did you get out of those ARB 2862 springs on the back? 2 inches? I just ordered those and they're on their way. I used the Bilstein 5100 adjustable on the front. Have it set to the 3rd setting. I might go up though, if it's too nose down after the rear lift.

Thank you and yeah, one of the factory links broke at about 90k miles. I have the front skid plate on but it's not pictured because I had just finished the installation. My diff drop kit came with some hardware that drops the skid enough to clear the longer bolts. If yours didn't, it would be easy to accomplish the same thing with longer skid plate bolts and some washers. The rear springs are great, not to stiff but still carry weight well. They set the rear about 2.75" higher than stock but settled a tiny bit since then. I think 2.5" is what you can expect out of them long term.
 

Trideyota

Recognized Member
Dec 31, 2017
82
8
8
Telluride, CO
Looks Good! Curious if anyone else has vsc issues after lift? If I go into a curve it sets off the vsc. Vehicle has zero body roll anymore, so computer thinks differently.
 

jwaring66

Active Member
Apr 3, 2017
30
27
18
43
Live in KC, play in AR
Looks Good! Curious if anyone else has vsc issues after lift? If I go into a curve it sets off the vsc. Vehicle has zero body roll anymore, so computer thinks differently.
Yes, mine does. But mine was overactive even before the lift. It only happens on curvy country roads when i'm hustling it a bit but it is still annoying. Occasionally I'll unplug the switch at the brake booster if I'm on a long curvy drive to disable the system. Or just slow down, wife wants me driving slower anyway :D

edit* I've explored all sorts of solutions including having the dealer perform a zero point calibration but none of it changed the sensitivity of the VSC. I believe there is a thread or link to thread somewhere on here that outlines a switch install to disable the system without unplugging it but I haven't gotten around to that yet.
 

Trideyota

Recognized Member
Dec 31, 2017
82
8
8
Telluride, CO
I live in Colorado so the highways are two lane canyon roads. It was driving me nuts! I cut into the black and white wires and installed the switch. It was worth the time and money.
 
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LoriH

New Member
Oct 13, 2018
2
0
1
52
I live in Colorado so the highways are two lane canyon roads. It was driving me nuts! I cut into the black and white wires and installed the switch. It was worth the time and money.

I'm having this issue after a 2 1/2 inch lift, 1.50 wheel spacers, and having 285/70R16 tires installed; along with new arms and upper ball joints. It is at the dealership as I write having the zero point calibration done. How and where do I go to get and install the switch? Dealership is saying I may have to get rid of my lift and tires but that is not an option for me as this is what I wanted.... It was also suggested unplugging the sensor but not sure how safe this option is. Any suggestions help is greatly appreciated!!