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2002 Limited 4WD

Discussion in '1Gen Sequoia Build Threads' started by Sal R., Apr 11, 2017.

  1. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    I've read about the supra pump method, but have yet to see it implemented.

    If you're doing the brake upgrade on my write up with the bigger rotors, you want the 13WH calipers, PN 19-2766 and 19-2767 off the O'Reilly's website. I chose O'Reilly's because I wasn't sure this was gonna work out and I wanted a potentially easy return.

    Seeing that you have an 06 & 05 LTD, chances are you already have the 13WL calipers.

    The 13WG calipers are found in early 1st Gen Sequoias (01-04) and have been superceded by the 13WL calipers.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2018
  2. I started test fitting the 13WH calipers today to my 04 Sequoia limited. I'm getting slight contact between the outer edge of the rotor and the caliper. How much clearance do you have between the top of the rotor and the caliper housing? Thanks
     
  3. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    I took out about 1/8", at most. It varied from DS to PS, due to casting tolerances of the caliper.

    Took out just enough to clear the rotor.
     
  4. Thanks, I'll have to clearance it a little. I saw in your pics about grinding down the tabs, but I missed the part where you took 1/8" out of the caliper housing. Thanks
     
  5. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    One more question. When measuring the inner width of the rails I come up with 42" for a length. Did you cut down your 8020 or order exact lengths for it?
     
  6. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    I created a simple jig on my work bench so that all the bars were cut to the exact same length. There's going to be some variance when building "something" in place and I didn't want to come up short.

    Basically, I bolted my miter saw down, and fastened a block of wood at other end 42" from the blade to get consistent lengths from one bar to the next.
     
  7. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    No problemo.
     
  8. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Ok, so you did have to cut them down. That was my biggest question, I didn't think anything would have changed from a 2002 to 06 regarding roof width. I've ordered from 8020 recently and their lengths that they provide are practically dead nuts on, especially for even values so I believe that I will just get pre-cut lengths from them. I don't trust my accuracy on cuts that much ;P As always thank you for the information.
     
  9. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    That why a jig is important. They are all the same length, rightly or wrongly, lol.
     
  10. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Oh totally agree. I have learned these lessons hard building my drawers which I will post soon. If I could ask one favor and if not too much hassle, if you are up on your roof or you remember if you could measure the length of the extrusions? Right now I have calculated it to be about 41.75" and then with the two 1/4" alumnium bars a total length of 42.25". Though I measured my old crossbars and I was getting a length of 42.125". If that's too much I'll mange.
     
  11. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    And $3500 and a new transmission later, I have 4th gear and OD off is working.

    For the last several months, I began to notice my RPMs were higher compared to what I was finding across expo, and the sequoia and tundra facebook forums. I never paid attention to it before, so I couldn't really pinpoint when it started to fail shifting in to 4th.

    Troubleshooting the problem, I had the ecm checked out and transmission pressure checked. ECM was sending signals as required and the transmission was falling within spec.

    Based on that, I surmised that it might be due to a faulty solenoid as I searched Google.

    With the help of a friendly YouTube mechanic, I dropped the cover and replaced the 4th gear solenoid.

    And it worked! Sort of. I lost 3rd in the process.

    After limping it to the shop and describing the problem, they confirmed my fears that the valvebody is probably fubared.

    Sure enough, there were a copious amounts of metal past the screen and it was only a matter of time before the transmission would fail completely. Buy once, cry once. I opted to have the transmission replaced as opposed to rebuilt.

    A little piece of mind goes along way.

    As it stands, 2100rpm@65mph on 34s and 4.56s, as opposed to 2900rpm@65mph with the failing transmission.
     
  12. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    Extrusion Length: 41-13/16"

    Rail to rail: 42-5/16"
     
    mulze42 likes this.
  13. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Thank you so much Sal. Greatly appreciate it.
     
    Sal R. likes this.
  14. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    MODIFICATION: Power Steering Cooler & Air Hose Remote Quickdisconnect

    Knocked out a couple things.

    New Derale 13212 power steering cooler picked up from Amazon. It is plumbed to replace the OEM "U" shaped steel line "cooler." My hoses are super leaky and it's time to stamp these out before the summit.

    A few SAS'ed taco guys use this cooler and the price was right ($40) compared to more expensive units like B&M ($90). Hey, if it's good enough for SAS'ed tacos on 35s and 37s, it's good enough for me.

    IMG_20180402_130030.jpg

    Had to shape some brackets with some spacers, but it was no big deal. Clearances get a little tight under the upper portion of the grille, but I have about 1/2" to spare. The new cooler is spaced off about 1/2" from the oil cooler.

    Mocked up:
    IMG_20180402_130017.jpg

    Painted, plumbed, and installed:
    IMG_20180406_180158.jpg

    Next up was a remote fitting for the air compressor air hose. It got annoying to have to pop the hood during snow or rain to gain access to the air compressor to air up. It is fitted where my windshield reservoir used to be located.

    I used some cheapy air lines from Harbor Freight cut to length with some 1/4" NPT standard fittings with a barb fitting at the end. Teflon tape applied where applicable. So far, so good. No air leaks and works as it should.

    On the downside, the ARB air hose kit I purchased for airing up is leaking air at the compressor-side fitting.

    What a let down...

    IMG_20180403_123506.jpg

    IMG_20180402_130003.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2018
    ukrboy likes this.
  15. silverback04

    silverback04 Member

    awesome work Sal.
     
  16. dstgean

    dstgean New Member

    Just read the thread and love your work!
     
  17. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    thanks guys!
     
  18. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    Finally got around to doing the read diff breather mod. Muddy water crossings this winter really made me prioritize this modification.

    Used union fitting Toyota part number 90404-51319. Picked up on Amazon and coupled it with some left over power steering reinforced rubber hose from the power steering cooler mod and I routed it along the gas filler tube up to the gas cap.

    Check off one more item for summit prep.

    Note: Gettin' muddy is overrated...
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2018
    mulze42 likes this.
  19. mulze42

    mulze42 Member

    Will you being doing the front diff breather and the transfercase breather as well?
     
  20. Sal R.

    Sal R. Active Member

    Don't really think its needed as its already located pretty high in the engine bay.

    (Not my) pic for reference:
    FB_IMG_1523203186737.jpg
     
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