2002 Limited 4WD

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Power Tray and Relay Bus

GOAL:

Add more accessories and keep the wiring clean.

PURPOSE:
With the air lockers and compressor install, I wanted to keep all the wiring clean with room for growth for the potential addition of aux lighting, CB, winch, etc. After reading numerous threads on aux power trays on TW and T4R, it was time to lay down the skeleton for the wiring schema.

Generally speaking, this is what I came up with:
wiring-general.jpg

The idea was to:
  • Minimize the wiring penetration from the engine compartment to the cockpit.
  • Keep all the load bearing wiring in the engine compartment.
  • Keep only the signal bearing wiring in the cockpit for electical safety.
  • Make it easy to add new switched accessories.
I used relays to accomplish the above requirements.

DURATION: 10-12 hours

MATERIALS:
16ga Steel Sheet Metal
Welder
Blue Sea 12 Circuit Fuse Block
Generic 6-Relay Bus Box
100A Type III Circuit Breaker
4ga Wiring w/ Terminals
16-18ga Wiring w/ Terminals
Female Spade Connectors
Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder
12-Pin Molex Connector

COST: ~$120

HOW-TO:
First thing was I made a power tray to hold the 100A circuit breaker, Blue Sea fuse box, and (finally) Alpine amplifier inline fuse. The fuse box is pretty big and there wasn't a whole lot of areas to mount it cleanly.

switchpanel02.JPG

Unfortunately, there is no template. I cut and shaped the 16ga sheet metal in place. Measured and cut the bracket legs in place. The welded tray assembly is mounted on the battery bracket support, inner fender, lower inner fender directly below the brake fluid resovoir, and loosely on top of the factory fuse box.

Power tray and relay bus box mounted and ready for wiring:
switchpanel03.JPG

Wiring schema for the switches:
wiring-switches.jpg

I changed the rear locker "on" schema (vs. ARB's). Originally, the rear locker "on" indicator would not illuminate unless the air compressor was turned "on" first. I did not like this concept because I would not know that the rear locker is set to engage until the air compressor was turned "on." Because my switches are mounted low, the hazard is I'm cruising along, the air compressor is accidentally turned on and the rear switch was, unknowingly, also turned on and the rear locks, unintentionally. As a result, I'd like to know immediately on ignition if the rear lockers are set to engage when the compressor is activated.

For the ignition 12V, I used the low amp heater system fuse. To be safe, I wanted to tap a low amperage (relatively speaking) non-critical system.

Wiring it all up:
Relay bus:
relaybox.jpg

Wiring Blue Sea fuse box:
switchpanel06.JPG

Wires labelled and wiring up center console (on point!):
switchpanel05.JPG

For my switches, I used OTRATTW Contura XIV switches, Lower Independant, Daylight Green/Red combo. I used OEM bezel console, part number: 588440-C010, to hold them.

The switch panel terminates at the Molex connector so the panel can be removed, if necessary. Pretty clean IMO.

Finished!
switchpanel08.JPG

switchpanel04.JPG

Fired it up and it all worked on the first try!

It pays to plan ahead.
 
Last edited:

TreyG870

New Member
Apr 24, 2017
5
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Can you elaborate some on your sub box and maybe throw a few more pics up of it? Also, any heat concerns having the amp mounted in that cubby?

Awesome build!
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
Can you elaborate some on your sub box and maybe throw a few more pics up of it? Also, any heat concerns having the amp mounted in that cubby?

Awesome build!

I don't have many pictures, but the process was simple enough and there are lots of DIY documentation on laying down fiberglass, which is what I used to create the enclosure.

2013-08-05 10_47_47 20130805_104747.jpg

When you remove the rear inner driver's side trim panel, you'll find that the cubby is held in place using permanently plastic welded buttons. I cut at the buttons carefully to separate the cubby enclosure from the rest of the trim panel. I retained as much of the button "body" so I could fasten everything together later.

I, then, used the cubby enclosure as a template for the sub body and laid down fiberglass with the face closed up to mount the sub. I, initially, wrapped the box in leather (as pictured above), but tore it out soon after to wrap the whole thing in Dynamat to improve sound quality, in addition to the trim panel and surrounding sheet metal body (the whole assembly rattled like crazy once the sub is driving).

When I was done, I assembled the sub into the trim enclosure with pig tails to easily connect it to the amp, secured the trim cubby back to the trim panel using short self tapping screws and buttoned everything up.

The amp has been in the recess since it was installed four years ago. Its been thru Arizona summer heat and I have had no issues.
 
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Jim Smola

Moderator
Staff member
Founding Member
Dec 28, 2016
424
173
43
Inman SC
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Power Tray and Relay Bus

GOAL:

Add more accessories and keep the wiring clean.

PURPOSE:
With the air lockers and compressor install, I wanted to keep all the wiring clean with room for growth for the potential addition of aux lighting, CB, winch, etc. After reading numerous threads on aux power trays on TW and T4R, it was time to lay down the skeleton for the wiring schema.

Generally speaking, this is what I came up with:
View attachment 598

The idea was to:
  • Minimize the wiring penetration from the engine compartment to the cockpit.
  • Keep all the load bearing wiring in the engine compartment.
  • Keep only the signal bearing wiring in the cockpit for electical safety.
  • Make it easy to add new switched accessories.
I used relays to accomplish the above requirements.

DURATION:
10-12 hours

MATERIALS:
16ga Steel Sheet Metal
Welder
Blue Sea 12 Circuit Fuse Block
Generic 6-Relay Bus Box
100A Type III Circuit Breaker
4ga Wiring w/ Terminals
16-18ga Wiring w/ Terminals
Female Spade Connectors
Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder
12-Pin Molex Connector

COST: ~$120

HOW-TO:
First thing was I made a power tray to hold the 100A circuit breaker, Blue Sea fuse box, and (finally) Alpine amplifier inline fuse. The fuse box is pretty big and there wasn't a whole lot of areas to mount it cleanly.

View attachment 599

Unfortunately, there is no template. I cut and shaped the 16ga sheet metal in place. Measured and cut the bracket legs in place. The welded tray assembly is mounted on the battery bracket support, inner fender, lower inner fender directly below the brake fluid resovoir, and loosely on top of the factory fuse box.

Power tray and relay bus box mounted and ready for wiring:
View attachment 600

Wiring schema for the switches:
View attachment 602

I changed the rear locker "on" schema (vs. ARB's). Originally, the rear locker "on" indicator would not illuminate unless the air compressor was turned "on" first. I did not like this concept because I would not know that the rear locker is set to engage until the air compressor was turned "on." Because my switches are mounted low, the hazard is I'm cruising along, the air compressor is accidentally turned on and the rear switch was, unknowingly, also turned on and the rear locks, unintentionally. As a result, I'd like to know immediately on ignition if the rear lockers are set to engage when the compressor is activated.

For the ignition 12V, I used the low amp heater system fuse. To be safe, I wanted to tap a low amperage (relatively speaking) non-critical system.

Wiring it all up:
Relay bus:
View attachment 605

Wiring Blue Sea fuse box:
View attachment 603

Wires labelled and wiring up center console (on point!):
View attachment 604

For my switches, I used OTRATTW Contura XIV switches, Lower Independant, Daylight Green/Red combo. I used OEM bezel console, part number: 588440-C010, to hold them.

The switch panel terminates at the Molex connector so the panel can be removed, if necessary. Pretty clean IMO.

Finished!
View attachment 606

View attachment 607

Fired it up and it all worked on the first try!

It pays to plan ahead.

Beautiful job.
 

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Front And Rear Quick Disconnect Swaybar Links

GOAL:
Spend the least amount of time possible messing around w/ the factory swaybar links.

PURPOSE:
I, generally, removed the swaybar link when I'm off-road. I never liked the idea of a loose component free to impact something while the suspension is articulating. Most folks just disconnect and zip tie it, but that just wasn't for me. If you've ever disco'ed the links, then I'd wager that you realize that they can be a pain fidgeting around with a ratched AND and allen wrench. Thanks to jimsmola, this forum, and WabFab, quick disconnects are now available for consumption.

MATERIALS:
WabFab quickdisconnects front & rear

DURATION: 2 hours

COST: $265

HOW-TO:
The install is pretty straight forward. Although, when the links arrived, it did have a lot of excess length, which makes sense, since it allows you to tailor the lengths to your specific ride height. For my application, I opted to set a length just slightly shorter than OEM. I have found that this actually kept my ride tighter and responsive around town and less likely to induce the VSC when taking turns at high speeds.

Front:
IMG_20180415_083756.jpg

Rear:
IMG_20180415_083855.jpg

Remove 2 nuts and pull 6 pins and I'm ready to party.

So, how much time did I actually save w/ the disco's?

Before I started the link install, I timed myself how long it actually took to exit the vehicle, go to the back, grab tools, and get to work.

After the links were dialed it, I timed myself using the same process.

Before: 27mins
After: 6mins.

And I haven't even trimmed off the excess length of the front links yet.

Awesome blossom.
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: T4R (GX470) 13.3" Big Brake Upgrade

GOAL:
Replace the crappy OEM brakes with rotors and calipers from an 07 T4R Sport Edition (aka GX470) that comes w/ 231mm 13WH calipers and (drum roll please) 338mm (13.3") rotors.

PURPOSE:
Pretty self explantory here. The OEM brakes...are shit. And mine were due for an overhaul. I had originally planned on doing the updated calipers for Tundra/Sequoias, but thanks to Scotty of Addicted Off-Road who pioneered this mod (AFAIK), this was a better investment of my time and money.

MATERIALS:

2007 T4R 13WH Brake Calipers
2007 T4R 338mm Brake Rotors
2007 T4R Brake Pads
Brake Fluid

DURATION: 8 hours

COST: $380

HOW-TO:
Scotty had a great, detailed write-up over at Expo. This post just expands on it with pictures. Everyone loves pictures, right?

First and foremost, all the hardware bolts on. The caveat is that you have to clearance the calipers, dust shield, and brake line. And these brakes are BIG. To stuff this, minimum 17" wheel is required and even then, it will depend wheel style, offset, and backspacing to clear the caliper.

My wheel choice yielded <3/4" between the caliper and inner rim and ~1/2" from the wheel spokes.

Before tearing into the brake system, I placed a wheel face down, placed the 338mm rotor into the wheel with caliper location mocked up to check clearances.

I assume you know how to do brake work, so I'm going to skip to the good stuff.

First, let's highlight the differences (aside from the caliper).

Before vs. After
t4rbrakes_07.JPG

Caliper Flange Mount Thickness OEM vs. T4R 13WH
As you can see, the OEM flange is thicker by about 1/8".
t4rbrakes_01.JPG

Rotor Diameter:
The rotor sports the 6x139.7 bolt circle and is of similar dimension to OEM.
t4rbrakes_04.JPG

t4rbrakes_06.JPG

Things you'll need to trim:
Dust shield (red):
t4rbrakes_05.JPG

You'll also have to bend the shield back about 1/8". Otherwise, the rotor will make contact.

T4R Caliper:
After vs. Before (lol)
t4rbrakes_09.JPG

Basically, you need to grind down the "pad" on the T4R caliper flange to sit flush w/ the rest of the flange. It's ~1/16" thick. I accomplished this by using a sharpie to mark the desired depth on the flange and grinded away using an angle grinder until all the shapie markings were gone. I, then, took a file to create a flat mounting surface.
t4rbrakes_11.JPG

Additionally, I had to clearance the inner ears of the caliper to make room for the rotor (red). Compared to OEM, the T4R caliper is offset towards the inside of the sequoia. Grinded off ~<1/8" using a dremel w/ grinder attachment.
t4rbrakes_12.JPG

Took me <10mins per caliper. Just make smooth, light passes. It's easier than it looks/sounds.

Bolted up to check for any more interferences:
Because the mounting flange is thinner than OEM, you'll find that the OEM mounting bolts will stick out past the spindle/steering knuckle mounting point. This is no cause for concern since there is adequate clearance from the rotor.
t4rbrakes_08.JPG

You can reuse the OEM hardline.

WARNING!
The way the brake hardline mounts to the T4R caliper, it comes dangerously close to hitting the coil/strut assembly at full steering lock, even at static ride height. I had to carefully bend and shape the hard line as close to the brake assembly to provide adequate clearance. I would suggest replacing the hardline w/ an aftermarket braided assembly that terminates to a banjo bolt.

For my setup, even with the hard line routed for clearance at static ride height, my COs will make contact w/ the hardline at full stuff with the steering locked. I will be replacing that hardline at a later time. For now, it clears while cruising around town.

All buttoned up:
t4rbrakes_10.JPG

REMINDER: Bleed your brakes, lol.

Can't really give a before/after stopping distance comparison, but I can say this: Getting on the brakes will peel me out of my seat. And it certainly "feels" like it's stopping sooner. I am definitely getting more nose dive and recoil oscillation now.
 
Last edited:

Sequoia4WD

Moderator
Staff member
Dec 29, 2016
33
16
8
Biloxi, MS
Outstanding write-up!(all of them)Some of the best and most detailed info I've seen for Sequioa
I need that brake swap!! Awesome work, thanks for sharing.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
REPAIR: Remove And Replace Radiator

TROUBLESHOOTING:
Tonight was supposed to be fun, as I had planned on installing my new F/R SS brake lines to complete my brake installation. Instead, I was greeted with this yellow bullshit:
IMG_20170522_170644874_HDR.jpg

Looking under the car, a pool of a silk dark/yellowish liquid was forming across the opposite ends of the back end of the skid plate. Upon removal of the skid, a small stream of the same dark/yellowish liquid was running to ground. Further inspection yielded the coolant overflow tank empty and attempts to fill it was unsuccessful. It was draining somewhere, but not to ground. Looking up from under the car just below the fan, there was a waterfall of a dark/yellowish stain coming from the top of the radiator. It would appear that a significant leak had developed and the fan was blowing all that nasty shit all over my clean engine compartment. So, off to O'reilly's I go to pick up a new radiator and coolant.

MATERIALS:
Radiator
2 Gallons Coolant

DURATION: 2 hours

COST: $240

REPAIR:
I used this YouTube video. However, I skipped the part about disconnecting the battery or removing the engine cover or intake plenum. I only removed the hose connections at the radiator, 4 bolts to the shroud, and the 4 bolts to the radiator.

Old vs. New
IMG_20170522_192945146.jpg

Easy peasy lemon squeezey.
 
Last edited:

Sequoia4WD

Moderator
Staff member
Dec 29, 2016
33
16
8
Biloxi, MS
What type of coolant did you use? Aluminium blocks require non-silicate coolant to prevent corrosion, I know the 2UZ-FE block is cast iron but also has aluminium heads...
 

Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
What type of coolant did you use? Aluminium blocks require non-silicate coolant to prevent corrosion, I know the 2UZ-FE block is cast iron but also has aluminium heads...

I use OEM pink stuff. Since the repair was done late in the day and dealer was closed already, I used Zerex pink coolant, which I understand is a suitable replacement.
 
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Sal R.

Very Well-Known Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
177
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Stainless Steel Braided Brakelines

GOAL:
Improve brake responsiveness and feel using stainless steel braided brakelines and increase clearance between front caliper and coilover suspension.

PURPOSE:
It is well documented that 13WL caliper upgrades that use the factory caliper hardline on 1st gen Tundras/Sequoias have issues clearing some coil/strut assemblies at full steering lock when the suspension is fully compressed. With the 13WH caliper offset inwards coupled with a larger mounting radius, clearance from the strut is further reduced, even at static ride height.

This (view looking up from caliper with steering wheel hard over)...
ss01.jpg

...can easily turn to this...
A7ECB7A5-3B19-42A7-8F60-B46A8BCF823D.jpg

...when the suspension cycles. Naturally, a lower profile solution is required. This led me to Crown Performance, who custom made sleeved stainless steel braided brakelines for 1st Gen Sequoias. Since I was already having the fronts made, I opted to have the rears measured and extended, as well. Crown had a lot of options for sleeving (colors and thickness) to help protect the braided lines. I chose the smoke since it was aesthetic and, more importantly, twice as thick compared to the colored vinyl they also had in stock.

MATERIALS:

Crown Performance Stainless Steel Brakelines, Front & Rear
Brake Fluid

DURATION: 3 hours

COST: $110

HOW-TO:
Remove OEM line and replace w/ the new.
Bleed brakes.

Nothing special or out-of-the-ordinary regarding the brakelines.

For my requirements, I had requested the front lines extended +2" over stock and terminate to a banjo fitting to reduce the profile of the brakeline where it attaches to the caliper. It is made as a single piece from the frame to the caliper, as opposed to OEM, which comes in two pieces.

Old vs. New
ss03.jpg

Installed:
ss02.jpg

As you can see it's routed close to the brake assembly away from the coilovers to provide maximum clearance.

For the rear lines, I opted to keep the factory hardline on the axle to help keep costs down. The new stainless steel brakelines only replace the factory rubber components from the body to the axle housing and the units on the rear calipers.

Old vs. New
ss04.jpg

Installed:
2017-05-26 12_36_43.jpg

2017-05-26 12_36_07.jpg

I don't know what possessed toyota to change the mounting schema of the passenger side rear brakeline, but instead of a clip, it's held in place using a bolt and an specialized integrated bracket on the rubber hose itself:
2017-05-26 12_36_16.jpg

So, included with the kit is a bracket with shim stacks and clamp down circlip. Doesn't exactly fit in the OEM location, but it's tight and won't be going anywhere.

The pedal feel is noticeably firm. It's on par w/ my lexus RX350. Getting on the brakes is definitely jarring and more responsive. It is a welcome change. I do not feel I have smash on the brakes just to slow to a stop.
 
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