Toytec Boss adjustable 2-3"

jwaring66

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Apr 3, 2017
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Live in KC, play in AR
I've only had this system on for a couple weeks so these are very initial impressions here, but so far I love it. The ride quality is great! I was originally concerned that it may be harsh and unpleasant to ride in for the fam (I had a spacer lift on a 2001 Tundra that rode like a brick). Thankfully I like it much better than the factory stuff and it is worlds better than a spacer lift. Shocks are very well valved and its handling characteristics are much improved.

The fronts are Eibach springs over their adjustable strut. I left them set where Toytec sets them from their shop (one is marked passenger and one driver side) to compensate for the driver weight and fuel tank (driver side). They were a hair under 3" when first installed, about 2.75' now but I fully expect them to settle a little bit more. That's about right because their target is 2.5" factory set. I went with these because they are adjustable and I can move them up a bit later if I add more weight to the front.

The rear is a taller 862 spring from OME with their longer BOSS shock. I have loaded the vehicle several times with all the kids, dog and gear and they hardly budge compared the factory. They netted roughly the same lift as the front (a hair under 3") and so they may settle a bit too. With 285's installed the truck is overall right at 4" taller than it was before. IMG_5208.JPG IMG_5222.JPG BTc.jpg

I'm excited to see how their shocks wear with time but the build quality is great and so far love the way it rides. It has the wife's stamp of approval and of course the kids love it, despite tripping several times while trying to climb in (old ride heights die hard).
 
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Nat

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Mar 27, 2017
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Glad to hear this. I ordered this kit a few days ago. It arrives early next week. Hope long did it take you to install?


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jwaring66

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Apr 3, 2017
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Live in KC, play in AR
Glad to hear this. I ordered this kit a few days ago. It arrives early next week. Hope long did it take you to install?


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Nice! I'm sure you'll be pleased with it.
I spent 4-5 hours on the front and about the same on the back. But I also didn't press too hard on it time wise- this truck isn't a daily driver so I had it up on jack stands for two days and wasn't really in a rush. Did the front on a Saturday and the rear on a Sunday. I did a lot of it myself and had a buddy come over to help when putting the fronts in (it helps to have someone who is able to pry down on the lower control arm when setting the lower strut bolt.

I've done a handful of these installs over the years but a couple of notes I made as I apparently got rusty over time (apply to any install)- the rear shocks are a b*tch to get out, especially if they are corroded badly on top. Soak the nuts on top with penetrating oil several times and let em sit overnight. I ended up putting an box end wrench on the top nut resting against the frame and using an oil filter wrench to spin the shock body (a pipe wrench or strap wrench would work too, maybe better). There isn't much room up there and there isn't much leverage with the box end wrench. I also loosened the upper locating arms at the axle in back to let the rear axle drop as much as possible. May have to do the same with the lower swing arms and panhard bar. I didn't do that but probably should have because I ended up using spring compressors to get the new ones squeezed in there. IMPORTANT NOTE- the two rear springs are slightly different heights. They are labeled A and B on a little sticker tag and I don't remember which was the taller one but put a straight edge on top and it will be obvious (see pic below). The taller one goes on the driver side. They make them this way to compensate for the extra weight of the fuel tank on that side. They don't really come with instructions so I had to research a little to figure it out.

Also disconnect the sway bars front and rear and the steering end links up front. In addition, I pulled the 4 bolts on the lower front ball joints to help make some room. It's also a great time to replace those lower ball joints with OEM joints if you haven't (see thread in suspension section on lower ball joint failure).
OME rear springs.jpg
 
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Nat

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Thanks for the info. It will save me some time. I might have to go with a set of 285/70 BFG KO2 for the stock rims as well, they look great. I had removed my fender flares all around a year or so back as I didn't like the look with them on with the stock wheels. Now that I see how they look with the lift, KO2s, and spacers, I may have to dust them off and put them back on. Your Sequoia looks outstanding. Good job!
 

jwaring66

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Apr 3, 2017
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Live in KC, play in AR
Thanks for the info. It will save me some time. I might have to go with a set of 285/70 BFG KO2 for the stock rims as well, they look great. I had removed my fender flares all around a year or so back as I didn't like the look with them on with the stock wheels. Now that I see how they look with the lift, KO2s, and spacers, I may have to dust them off and put them back on. Your Sequoia looks outstanding. Good job!
You're welcome and thanks for the compliment. These Sequoias definitely look right with a bigger tire. It's a big vehicle and with the fender flares on the smaller factory tires it does look kinda funny. I also considered Nitto Ridge Graps (have had 2 sets of Nittos on my Duramax and like them) and Toyo At2's. The Toyo's are the cheapest but wasn't sure how they would wear (have a buddy who wore them down quick on a Mega Cab- but that's also an HD truck driven on curvy roads all the time). Finally decided to pay up a bit for the Bfg's because I had a set on a 1st-gen Trundra that wore like iron. The Bfg look on a Toyota is pretty classic too.
Cool side note- my Chevy HD is leveled with a 34" tire and this Sequoia is about as tall. I need to get a picture of them side by side but its a beast. You'll like the new stance.

Give us a shout if you run into any issues with the install and throw some pictures up when you get it setup the way you want!
 
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Jim Smola

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If mine were corroded any worse than they were I would have done the same. I've heard of guys cutting an access panel in the floor too but that seems a little extreme.

Haha I am one of those guys. Mine were rusted so bad. Wish I would have thought of the quick action of the sawzaw. Oh well the are done.
 

jwaring66

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Apr 3, 2017
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Live in KC, play in AR
I've been looking for some little plastic caps that are the right diameter and if I find them I'm going to grease the top of those studs and put the cap on there to keep em from rusting (as much). I figure I may have to change these again at some point and if I don't, well some mechanic somewhere will be happy with the mod :)

Also ran into my first issue with this setup- I stop and take pictures of it all the time! And unfortunately with the kids spring sports schedules it hasn't even been out of town so they are all glamour shots.
IMG_6842 (2).jpg
 
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Jim Smola

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I've been looking for some little plastic caps that are the right diameter and if I find them I'm going to grease the top of those studs and put the cap on there to keep em from rusting (as much). I figure I may have to change these again at some point and if I don't, well some mechanic somewhere will be happy with the mod :)

Also ran into my first issue with this setup- I stop and take pictures of it all the time! And unfortunately with the kids spring sports schedules it hasn't even been out of town so they are all glamour shots.
View attachment 547

Exactly how it should look. I put anti seize on my top shock bolt so hope that will make the job a little easier next go around.
 
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Rob

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Apr 4, 2017
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I ordered the same setup for my rear. Believe it or not I've gotten enough lift to level my truck with just aftermarket airlift airbags in the rear, And Rancho quick lift in front.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to an upgrade out back cause my shocks are toasted. Im Keeping the airlift airbags in there too, so I can give some updates on how that goes.
 
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