2002 Limited 4WD

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Solo Motorsports Mid-Travel Kit, SPC Cams, ICON ET Coilovers, Limit Straps (continued)

Next up, is the Solo Motorsports (SM) mid-travel kit. It's a pretty beefy piece of hardware.

Features:
  • Boxed design
  • Integrated upper control arm slug upgraded to 5/8" hardware (a step up from 1/2")
  • Lower uniball conversion
  • Double shear heim steering (inner and outer), also uses 1/2" & 5/8" diameter bolts
  • Uses OEM 4WD hubs
Fastener difference:
  • SM 1/2" vs. OEM 3/8" joint-knuckle mating bolts diameter
  • SM ball joint 5/8" bolt with a sleeve that tapers up to 3/4" vs. OEM 1/2" bolt diameter
SM (with uniball attached) vs. OEM
2018-05-28 13_07_07.jpg

Inner/Outer Tierod vs. Hiem Steering Rod
2018-05-28 12_57_20.jpg

Modified lower control arm:
2018-05-28 12_34_58.jpg

The control arm is OEM with bushings already pre-installed. It may not be obvious, but this control arm is modified. The lower ball joint hole was bored out to accept the lower uniball sleeve and hardware. I had SM bore it for me. It is a high tolerance 5/8"-3/4" taper fit perpendicular to the mount surface. Considering the critical nature of this mount, it would be wise to get it done professionally. It's not a job that should be done by hand. The goal here is reliability, not cost.

Lower uniball joint with tapered sleeve mounted using 12-point fasteners:
2018-05-28 12_31_51.jpg

IMG_20180530_192533.jpg

The SM lower uniball joint housing has a double shear heim joint steering mount compared the the OEM ball joint housing single shear mount.

Similarly, the inner heim joint is also double shear:
2018-05-28 12_23_28.jpg

Because it's a heim joint, the bellows are no longer required. I'm considering finding an accordion boot that might fit to keep dirt and debris out of the rack and pinion. The inner heim joint bracket bolts in place. No modification is needed to mate it to the steering rack. I did add some green loctite, as advised, to ensure it doesn't come loose.

2018-05-28 17_41_49.jpg

While I was in there, I took the liberty of installing limit straps. Because I no longer use a sway bar, the shock was the limiting component for downtravel. Can't have that. I set the length with a 1/4" before the shock fully extends. I followed a similar procedure to locate an appropriate mount for the strap as described for the rear straps. I used the, now empty, swaybar link mount as the lower mounting point.

All buttoned up:
2018-05-28 14_51_27.jpg

Wheel and tire clearance:
2018-05-28 17_43_02.jpg

I threw my rebuilt ICONs in place of the Kings simply because of the extra travel. Plus, it has been re-valved for 700lb springs set with 1" of preload.

With the addition of the lower uniballs, the limiting component is actually the upper uniball cup. It hits the spindle.

Theoretically, I can get another 1-2" of wheel downtravel if the shock was longer by an 1 inch and another 1-2" of uptravel if I shorten the bumpstops and trim the fender, which I may explore one day.
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Pulled the SPC cams. They were the culprit for the steering, tracking, and stability issues that have been plaguing my Sequoia since the initial installation.

See original post for updated details.
 
Last edited:
Nov 22, 2017
8
0
1
17
For the switches for your lights, how did you get them to fit and stay in place? Is it just naturally a perfect fit or did you have to modify it?
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
500 mile trip report regarding the Solo motorsports MT spindle and lower uniball conversion kit.

200 miles without a swaybar, 300 miles with.

A front swaybar is a must for this kit. Without it, you will experience some squirrelly tracking at speeds 60mph+. The added unsprung mass of the solo kit changes the dynamics of the suspension. Not to mention the double shear heim steering coupled with MTs will grab onto just about any road imperfections. The front swaybar will keep driveabilty predictable on-road.

The issue is most prominent on a crown or when into a turning maneuver. The uneven weight distribution would cause an unpredictable cycle between oversteer and understeer at highway speeds.

As I said, the car turns like a race car but rolls like a pig in mud.

Debating on whether or not to hit the road this weekend or buckle down and keep going thru my to do list. Only a few more weeks til summit...

smh
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Relocate Windshield Washer Reservoir

GOAL:
Retain/regain windshield washer functionality.

PURPOSE:
Remember this?


Well, I took it out soon after tubbing the fenders and firewall. As a result, I lost the capability to wash my windshield. It's incredibly annoying on snow, sand, and just overall dirty days.

MATERIALS:
AUDEW 12V Universal Car Windshield Washer Kit with Pump Jet Button Switch 160186

DURATION: 1 hours

COST: $20

HOW-TO:
Nothing to it, assuming you've already removed your OEM reservoir. Picked up the universal reservoir from Amazon.

Basically:
  1. Remove OEM pump
  2. Remove the float switch
  3. Drill 1" diameter hole on bottom of the universal reservoir
  4. Install one of OEM pumps from the OEM reservoir
  5. Install float switch
  6. Pull OEM tubing and wiring into the engine bay from wheel well (there's enough slack)
  7. Cut, bend, shape a bracket
  8. Drill and mount bracket
  9. Mount the universal reservoir
  10. Re-connect tubing and wiring
1" diamter hole for the float switch
2018-06-22 15_51_24.jpg

OEM pump and switch mounted on universal reservoir
2018-06-23 11_01_27.jpg

Reservoir mounted on custom bracket
2018-07-03 16_29_39.jpg

2018-06-23 15_53_31.jpg

No re-wiring was necessary. Once I broke loose the wiring and tubing from their mounts/tie-downs, there is plenty of length for both to be able to pull them back from wheel well and into the engine bay to reach the new reservoir.
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Relocate Firestik Antenna

GOAL:
Maximum performance from the CB Radio.

PURPOSE:
When I reworked the can holder swing out, I found that the new can profile had negatively affected my CB radio performance, which was mounted right next to it.

SUMMARY:
To meet the required SWR limits (<1.5), the antenna needed to be moved. After toying around with different options, I lazied out, and mounted it on my front bumper.

It worked out. The end result was 1.3/1.1.
2018-06-23 18_27_56.jpg
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Relocate Ditch Lights

GOAL:
Move the ditch lights from hood to somewhere else.

PURPOSE:
I never liked the ditch lights mounted on the hood obstructing my field of vision. I felt it was obnoxious and drew too much attention for my liking.

SUMMARY:
Ultimately, there was a space on my front bumper that looked like a good spot.

2018-06-23 18_26_55.jpg
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: 3-Jerry Can Holder

GOAL:
Maximize fuel range.

PURPOSE:
A single 5-gallon can doesn't do much for a pig like the Sequoia. For upcoming Death Valley trips, the more range the better.

SUMMARY:
Looking at the layout of my can holder swingout, I knew I could fit 3 cans for a whopping 15-gallons of extra fuel range.

However, I did not want to permanently add length to an already long vehicle, so after some trial and error, I settled on a "half-can" holder. It may look flimsy, but to help support the weight of the jerry cans, each can has a dedicated support gusset under the tray made of 12ga steel. I tested the supported weight by filling each can with water, which is heavier than gas.

2018-06-23 18_30_57.jpg

2018-06-23 18_28_23.jpg

The securing mechanism uses a round bar, welded dog-bone assembly that relies on nuts and threaded rods to clamp down the jerry cans in place.
2018-06-23 18_29_21.jpg

Fuel is transferred using a siphon hose.

#OAF
 
Last edited:
Oct 10, 2017
146
16
18
28
You are brave for going that long without a washer fluid reservoir. I could not last that long. The other modifications look great. Really liking the placement of the lights and jerry can holder.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
You are brave for going that long without a washer fluid reservoir. I could not last that long. The other modifications look great. Really liking the placement of the lights and jerry can holder.
It was a real nuisance not having a washer working, but I just kept kicking the can down the line. Figured it was time.
 
Oct 10, 2017
146
16
18
28
I an understand that. In other news I figured you should know that with the 1/2" risers the 1530 bars dropped in beautifully.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Front Facing Camera

GOAL:
Enhance situational awareness in front of vehicle.

PURPOSE:
Having a wide field of view camera in the rear really helps out a lot when trying maneuver tight spaces. Whether it's on a trail or a parking lot, having a camera out back was super convenient. Considering I had an open AV input spot on my headunit, I thought having a camera up front would also be great thing to install.

SUMMARY:
Considering that I still had to route the CB antenna cable from the front bumper, I figured this would be the best time to stamp out this nuisance mod and route them altogether.

Camera mounted on my bumper.
2018-06-24 18_12_19.jpg

I routed all necessary camera wiring along the front end, through the passenger side fender well using the penetration for the washer reservoir, into the engine bay, then into the cabin thru the passenger side rubber grommet, along with the CB antenna cable.
2018-06-24 19_38_48.jpg

Power for the camera was taken from the old front amp wiring harness (I wanted to keep everything together).


Positive was spliced into the gray wire.
Negative was spliced into the brown w/ silver band wire.

Testing with a multi-meter, the camera will power up on ignition and shut off on ACC off.

My vision for camera is to help me navigate a trail making sure I follow a good line, situational awareness for obstructions and obstacles, better awareness during winching activities, and squeezing into tight parking spots.

IMG_20180627_091350.jpg
 
Last edited:

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: WaterPORT

GOAL:
Move the WaterPORT from the roof rack.

PURPOSE:
The WaterPORT is great to have. Not only for trips, but it's great washing off the beach days, and cooling off after hikes and runs, as well. But it's not very convinient being on the roof and having to break it down when I'm not using it. I never liked keeping it up there all the time because it added unnecessary height. I wanted a permanent solution that wasn't so obtrusive.

DURATION: 1 hour

MATERIALS:
WaterPORT
Large QuickFist clamps x2
Misc nuts and bolts

COST: $110

HOW-TO:
I used to carry my waterport on the roof rack and it was held in place using the large QuickFist clamps.

Since I don't carry a spare anymore under the car, it looked like a great spot to mount the WaterPORT. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I opted to keep using the QF clamps. I kept the install simple, accessible, removable, and portable.

I used the existing crossmember that held the spare to mount the clamps to. I removed the lifting mechanism (held in place using 4 12mm bolts), drill 6 holes, mount the QF clamps, mount the WaterPORT. Thankfully, it doesn't hang too low nor does it impact my departure angle...I think.

It's an ideal spot for 30lbs of gear to keep the vehicle CG low.

And I'm all about keep it low.

2018-06-27 17_08_41.jpg

2018-06-27 17_09_02.jpg

The fill/output port is easily accessible under the car. The shrader valve has plenty clearance from the muffler. If needed, I can just undo the clamps and remove the WaterPORT.

I do need to find a capping solution for the fill/output port to help keep debris and the elements out of it.
 
Likes: cjet427