2002 Limited 4WD

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
GOAL: Organize Recovery Gear and Tools

SUMMARY:
Having all my recovery gear in the Plano case on the roof worked out well. However, it was cumbersome to setup and breakdown between trips and I didn't like added weight up high. Not to mention that I've nicked my roof moving gear up and down.

At the same, if I could store the Plano case in the cab, it was unruly to take in/out. With all the gear inside, it was easily 50+ lbs. At 36" in length, it didn't pack well, either.

I wanted something that packed better and was easier to manipulate.

Scouting Home Depot, I came across these Rigid modular tool boxes. Sturdy and weatherproof. I did have to remove the lid lining to maximize storage volume, but it really works out. It can sit nestled behind my cooler next to some storage boxes.

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In a similar note, keeping my tools loose in a toolbox was less than ideal. It made finding the right tool annoying, especially while on a trail.

Doing a bit of searching, I settled on the Bucketboss roll up tool bag with a separate wrench roll. I had considered the Atlas roll up tool bag, but I didn't like the fact the the wrench roll was integrated and on the backside of the bag. Accessing the wrenches after the bag was deployed meant closing up all the pouches and flipping over the bag. Didn't like that idea. I wanted all tools accessible once unpacked.

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Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
The Camburg long travel kit comes with uniball lowers and uppers. You’re right regarding the fiberglass fenders being a must with the LT kit.
Looking through various pics, the LCA pivots are uniball (similar to the Solo LT kit), but the spindle to LCA is still uses the factory ball joint.
 

Ryan H.

New Member
Oct 1, 2018
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MODIFICATION: Auxilary Power Tray and Relay Bus

GOAL:

Add more accessories and keep the wiring clean.

PURPOSE:
With the air lockers and compressor install, I wanted to keep all the wiring clean with room for growth for the potential addition of aux lighting, CB, winch, etc. After reading numerous threads on aux power trays on TW and T4R, it was time to lay down the skeleton for the wiring schema.

Generally speaking, this is what I came up with:
View attachment 598

The idea was to:
  • Minimize the wiring penetration from the engine compartment to the cockpit.
  • Keep all the load bearing wiring in the engine compartment.
  • Keep only the signal bearing wiring in the cockpit for electical safety.
  • Make it easy to add new switched accessories.
I used relays to accomplish the above requirements.

DURATION: 10-12 hours

MATERIALS:
16ga Steel Sheet Metal
Welder
Blue Sea 12 Circuit Fuse Block
Generic 6-Relay Bus Box
100A Type III Circuit Breaker
4ga Wiring w/ Terminals
16-18ga Wiring w/ Terminals
Female Spade Connectors
Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder
12-Pin Molex Connector

COST: ~$120

HOW-TO:
First thing was I made a power tray to hold the 100A circuit breaker, Blue Sea fuse box, and (finally) Alpine amplifier inline fuse. The fuse box is pretty big and there wasn't a whole lot of areas to mount it cleanly.

View attachment 599

Unfortunately, there is no template. I cut and shaped the 16ga sheet metal in place. Measured and cut the bracket legs in place. The welded tray assembly is mounted on the battery bracket support, inner fender, lower inner fender directly below the brake fluid resovoir, and loosely on top of the factory fuse box.

Power tray and relay bus box mounted and ready for wiring:
View attachment 600

Wiring schema for the switches:
View attachment 602

I changed the rear locker "on" schema (vs. ARB's). Originally, the rear locker "on" indicator would not illuminate unless the air compressor was turned "on" first. I did not like this concept because I would not know that the rear locker is set to engage until the air compressor was turned "on." Because my switches are mounted low, the hazard is I'm cruising along, the air compressor is accidentally turned on and the rear switch was, unknowingly, also turned on and the rear locks, unintentionally. As a result, I'd like to know immediately on ignition if the rear lockers are set to engage when the compressor is activated.

For the ignition 12V, I used the low amp heater system fuse. To be safe, I wanted to tap a low amperage (relatively speaking) non-critical system.

Wiring it all up:
Relay bus:
View attachment 605

Wiring Blue Sea fuse box:
View attachment 603

Wires labelled and wiring up center console (on point!):
View attachment 604

For my switches, I used OTRATTW Contura XIV switches, Lower Independant, Daylight Green/Red combo. I used OEM bezel console, part number: 588440-C010, to hold them.

The switch panel terminates at the Molex connector so the panel can be removed, if necessary. Pretty clean IMO.

Finished!
View attachment 606

View attachment 607

Fired it up and it all worked on the first try!

It pays to plan ahead.

Hey Sal,

I recently purchased a 2003 Sequoia and am working on building it currently. I have read some posts about disabling the VSC/traction control while in 2wd but haven't really gotten solid informaiton. I noticed on this wiring post that you have a "Disable VSC" button and wondered if you have wired that to disconnect somehow. Can you provide more info here?
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Hey Sal,

I recently purchased a 2003 Sequoia and am working on building it currently. I have read some posts about disabling the VSC/traction control while in 2wd but haven't really gotten solid informaiton. I noticed on this wiring post that you have a "Disable VSC" button and wondered if you have wired that to disconnect somehow. Can you provide more info here?
For my installation, I used an "elaborate" combination of switch and relay. See original wire diagram for details.

When the switch is "on," it would energize the relay to break the wire connection on the brake reservoir.

The same effect can be accomplished by adding a simple spst switch on one of the brake reservoir wires. This would be like unplugging the connector on it, which would disable vac/trac.
 
Likes: ECrank

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Califab Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms

Hi Sal,

I've looked around and it seems califab is out of business or they are just not active on their social media. Anyways, since I can't find any detailed information on the dimensions, are these comparable?

https://www.metaltech4x4.com/metal-tech-fj-cruiser-4runner-rear-upper-links/

As always, thank you very much.

Califab is very active on IG and they are very much still in business. Gonna have to call them directly for the links.

Can't say anything about the MetalTech links.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
MODIFICATION: Fox Coilovers and Durobump Bumpstops

GOAL:
Improve ride quality.

PURPOSE:
With the added weight up front and the added unsprung weight of the wheels, tires, and the Solo hardware, the 2.5 Kings or ICONs couldn't keep up, faded quickly, and rode rather harshly.

DURATION: 4 hours

MATERIALS:
Fox Coilovers 880-06-420
plasticsguy Durobumps for 3gen T4R

COST: $2000

HOW-TO:
Suspension installs is covered in depth all over the internet so I'm going to stick to the highlights.

Mounting surface to eye center comparison pic:

Kings (19-1/4") vs. ICON ET (20-1/4") vs. Fox (20-3/4")
IMG_20181101_102217-7-12.jpg

For reference, pictured are:
King CO with 14" 650lb coils
ICON ET CO with 14" 700lb coils (not pictured is original 13" 650lb coils)
Fox CO with approximately 16" 650lb coils

The Fox's approximately 16" spring and 1/2" longer overall extended length than the ICON ET was a huge plus since this makes use of almost all the available travel afforded by the Solo kit.

Because the coil is so long, clearances get tight around the CV axle. Additionally, as mentioned in a previous post, my 13WH calipers with T4R/GX470 rotors will make contact with the coil at full stuff with steering hard over. Going to need to be mindful of that.

Installation-wise, the Fox's was a real pain in the ass to install. Out of the box, the height adjustment collar and lower eye were "backwards." What this means is that if I didn't rotate both to an appropriate position, I'd have to remove the assembly to adjust height and the lower coil would make contact with the axle. Additionally, I needed to clock the reservoir fitting inboard so that it cleared the Total Chaos UCA at full droop.

Because of the Solo spindles taking up so much room, I had to unbolt the UCA to install the CO because clearances got real tight. Even then, it was like playing heavy Tetris to get it to fit.
IMG_20181101_122107-11-13.jpg

Awhile back, I installed the Wheelers superbumps made for a 2gen Taco. While it "fit," it rode on my LCA at my desired ride height.
MVIMG_20181101_100420-8-15.jpg

Worked well enough, but I was not satisfied with this solution so I started looking for a replacement. Under low speed, the sides would feel like it was being "lifted up." I surmised that the bumps constantly contacting the LCA was interfering with the suspension doing its job.

Scouring T4R.org, I came across the Durobumps. It's made of a stiffer material, tapered for a more full contact, and approximately 1" shorter.

MVIMG_20181101_103701-9-16.jpg

IMG_20181101_143924-10-14.jpg

The difference was night and day. The added space means that the suspension could do its job before contacting the bumps.

Coupled with the Fox, ride quality was greatly improved. I didn't have that floaty feeling anymore and my underdamped oscillation was gone.

Win.

Hope this is the last suspension I purchase for the front.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Fox, ICON, King Coilover comparison feedback.

To save myself some time regarding messages, here's my feedback on all the above.

ICON Extended Travel (E: 20-1/4"):
This was the first suspension I tried based on user feedback. Configuration was stock with 295/70R18 (34s). Out of the box, it came with 13" 650 lb coils. Guessing from the wrap count, it's a linear rate coil. They rode okay. I did not feel they did well on relatively flat desert terrain, but were okay.

After the tube bumper, winch, brakes, and Solo spindles, I had them rebuilt with 700lb linear rate coils. Was not happy at all. The coils were too stiff and didn't compress well. They also faded quickly with the higher spring rate and all the added weight for on/off-road highway driving.

Kings (E: 19-1/4"):
This was purchased to replace the ICONs with the 13" coil. Configuration was stock with 295/70R18 (34s). Out of the box, it came with 14" 650 lb coils. Based on the wrap count, it was a progressive rate coil. The ride was way better and handled desert terrain better.

After the tube bumper, winch, brakes, and Solo spindles, the Kings rode much better than the ICONs on 700 lb coils. They faded too, but not as quickly as the ICONs on/off-road highway speeds.

Fox (E: 20-3/4")
This was purchased to resolve the fade issue. Out of the box, it came with a 16" 650lb linear rate coil. It rides as nice as stock with Kings before all the added weight. Has the most usable wheel travel of the three systems.

I'd estimate about 300lbs of added weight up front when factoring in the Group 31 battery, bumper, winch with synthetic rope, Solo spindles, hi-lift, 18s, and 295/70s.
 
Jan 5, 2018
9
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Seattle, WA
Glad you like these Sal! Are you planning to install 700 lbs springs or stay with the 650s? I've been wondering whether I'll need to go to 700s when I get a winch/bumper.
What settings are you running for high and low speed compression? I'm full soft on HS and like +3 on LS.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Glad you like these Sal! Are you planning to install 700 lbs springs or stay with the 650s? I've been wondering whether I'll need to go to 700s when I get a winch/bumper.
What settings are you running for high and low speed compression? I'm full soft on HS and like +3 on LS.
I'm going to stick to 650s. Not doing 700s for reasons stated above regarding the ICONs.

HS is 3 clicks from full.
LS is 1/4 from full.

Rides just the way I like. Controlled and cush.
 
Jan 1, 2017
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MODIFICATION: Stainless Steel Braided Brakelines

GOAL:
Improve brake responsiveness and feel using stainless steel braided brakelines and increase clearance between front caliper and coilover suspension.

For my requirements, I had requested the front lines extended +2" over stock and terminate to a banjo fitting to reduce the profile of the brakeline where it attaches to the caliper. It is made as a single piece from the frame to the caliper, as opposed to OEM, which comes in two pieces.
Sal,
Forgive me if this has been posted, but I couldn't find a reference to the actual length of the lines you had made. I have had the 13WH setup siting here for a while, waiting for me to find the time and energy to install it. But now I have to, fast, so I'm going to a local hydraulic hose fab shop to have them made before I strip the truck down. It would be super handy to have the info about the fittings also so I can just walk in and get them done while I wait, which they say they do daily. Thanks.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Sal,
Forgive me if this has been posted, but I couldn't find a reference to the actual length of the lines you had made. I have had the 13WH setup siting here for a while, waiting for me to find the time and energy to install it. But now I have to, fast, so I'm going to a local hydraulic hose fab shop to have them made before I strip the truck down. It would be super handy to have the info about the fittings also so I can just walk in and get them done while I wait, which they say they do daily. Thanks.
I don't have the actual lengths. Crown measured the lengths right off the vehicle and added 2in.
 
Jan 1, 2017
4
0
1
53
Sal,
Forgive me if this has been posted, but I couldn't find a reference to the actual length of the lines you had made. I have had the 13WH setup siting here for a while, waiting for me to find the time and energy to install it. But now I have to, fast, so I'm going to a local hydraulic hose fab shop to have them made before I strip the truck down. It would be super handy to have the info about the fittings also so I can just walk in and get them done while I wait, which they say they do daily. Thanks.
Well, I completed one side of the T4R swap.
Following your guidelines, Sal, I took the boss off the caliper ears, and clearanced the inner casting tabs, then test fit it.
Nort gort.
I still needed more material off the mounting tabs, but since that was already nearly flat, I repeated the process on the hub ears as well. With both surfaces filed flat (a damned time consuming task) I likely removed 1/16" off each surface, maybe a bit more from the caliper though.
Still not enough clearance for my liking.
Took a little more off the caliper ears, and since I was out of time, I buttoned it up, but I still felt the clearance was insufficient. The noise coming from that corner tells me that there is contact between the caliper and rotor, mostly when loading it in turns.
My suggestion to anyone else looking to do this is have a machine shop or a pal with a mill cut the material off so that the mounting surfaces are clean, flat and true, and get to filing the hub side tabs flat as well.
My finished result (for now) is that there is a notable difference in the gap between the outer rotor face and piston compared to the same on the inside, of a bit less than 1/8". If your rotor doesn't appear centered in the piston gap, you will likely be redoing it. It may also not be straight, which I also discovered.
Now, having said all that, my rig is an 05, and already had the larger brake setup compared to the earlier Trees, and although I doubt there is any difference in the hub casting dimensions, it is possible that's why I'm getting a different result than you, Sal.
Brake feel is definitely more aggressive, as it now pulls to the left since I've only done that side so far. I expect the end result to be very pleasing when hauling trailers.

Oh, and the hard line is so close the eye of the shock mount, I can see why a full stuff, full lock dynamic compression would cause issues. I think with stock shocks, it is passable but definitely plan to keep an eye on that.
 
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Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
310
142
43
San Diego
Mounting shouldn't be different since the WL calipers are compatible with the smaller WEs.

Differences lie in the actual caliper casting.