See above.
That is the nice thing about the 15 series. It's more commonly used and beefier, overall. Rhino rack accessories also work, IIRC.
2002 Limited 4WD
- Thread starter Sal R.
- Start date
See above.
That is the nice thing about the 15 series. It's more commonly used and beefier, overall. Rhino rack accessories also work, IIRC.
Great! So your recommendation is the GS59-685 for the LC80 series with 6-7" of lift? I don't think I'll ever have a rear bumper but I think having the boat on there would be reason enough to get those instead of the GS59-575s.
I did a quick flex test at a loading ramp at work and got the following results.
In short, I attained 15" of wheel travel (stuffed to droop) with the new shock and control arm setup. I can achieve another 1-2", maybe more, if I re-adjust the limit straps lower since the coil has room to extend, still. Both measurements were taken thru the centerline of the wheel for consistency.
Sure, I could have crawled under the car and measured shock extension for a more accurate representation of wheel travel, but I like living, most of the time.
All in all, I'm pretty pleased with how this turned out and it was well worth the effort.
Static ride height:
Flexed, not stuffed, wheel off the ground, limit strap is taught:
In short, I attained 15" of wheel travel (stuffed to droop) with the new shock and control arm setup. I can achieve another 1-2", maybe more, if I re-adjust the limit straps lower since the coil has room to extend, still. Both measurements were taken thru the centerline of the wheel for consistency.
Sure, I could have crawled under the car and measured shock extension for a more accurate representation of wheel travel, but I like living, most of the time.
All in all, I'm pretty pleased with how this turned out and it was well worth the effort.
Static ride height:
Flexed, not stuffed, wheel off the ground, limit strap is taught:
Any thoughts of using a pin to shock eye converter to open up the shock selection available? Or are you pleased with the new dobsins? After seeing Josh Embry's video on youtube also linked here on the forum, I might also be inclined to check out the OME line of shocks. I think I may have a bear of a time getting them out as they look a bit old and rusty. That said, I have my 5100's for the front, the 2662's for the rear and now need only shocks to make it bigger--well and tires too.
Dan
Dan
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Sal, where did you get your custom ladder made? I have a spoiler on my Sequoia and cant seem to find a vendor that sold a ladder that goes over the wing.
I never liked the idea of the eye adaptor since it would constrain the shock movement to one axis as it cycles up and down. With a stem fitment, the shock would be free move about the radius.
It's been a few weeks since I looked at OMEs charts, but I could not find a shock in their catalog that had the right dimensions and was a stem and eye fitment, let alone the appropriate valving.
The Dobinson shocks are en route. Given they are valved to spring rates comparable to OME coils, I think they would serve to be a perfect shock for my setup with carry weight.
MODIFICATION: Radio Stays on During Crank
GOAL:
Keep radio on while cranking car from ACC position.
PURPOSE:
It was ALWAYS annoying hanging out in the car, listening to BT audio, only for the radio to shut off when turning over the car and resetting the connection.
MATERIALS:
2200 uF 35V Capacitor
3A diode
DURATION: 1 hour
COST: $5
HOW-TO:
I knew I needed a capacitor to keep the radio system energized to survive cranking, but didn't know what size I needed or where to best put the capacitor.
A simple search yielded this video:
Resulting schematic:
In short, the diode was needed to keep the current from back flowing into the electrical system. Without it, the discharging capacitor did blow the 7.5amp radio fuse. I spliced the capacitor and diode onto the radio harness to keep it simple.
With the 2200 uF capacitor, the radio stays on for 5 seconds when the key is removed before completely discharging.
Plenty of time to turn the car over and keep the radio alive.
Mission accomplished.
GOAL:
Keep radio on while cranking car from ACC position.
PURPOSE:
It was ALWAYS annoying hanging out in the car, listening to BT audio, only for the radio to shut off when turning over the car and resetting the connection.
MATERIALS:
2200 uF 35V Capacitor
3A diode
DURATION: 1 hour
COST: $5
HOW-TO:
I knew I needed a capacitor to keep the radio system energized to survive cranking, but didn't know what size I needed or where to best put the capacitor.
A simple search yielded this video:
Resulting schematic:
In short, the diode was needed to keep the current from back flowing into the electrical system. Without it, the discharging capacitor did blow the 7.5amp radio fuse. I spliced the capacitor and diode onto the radio harness to keep it simple.
With the 2200 uF capacitor, the radio stays on for 5 seconds when the key is removed before completely discharging.
Plenty of time to turn the car over and keep the radio alive.
Mission accomplished.
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MODIFICATION: Dobinson Rear Shocks
GOAL:
Get the ride under control.
PURPOSE:
Having verified the the shock dims and a better feel for the valving requirements, it was time for the real deal. Considering my rig's carry weight, I opted to go with the LC80 shock. Seemed like a good idea and more cost effective than a custom shock. Not to mention you get a 2.5" smooth body shock cheaper than comprable Icons or Kings.
MATERIALS:
Dobinson Shock G59-685
DURATION: 1 hour
COST: $200
HOW-TO:
Not going to go into the nitty gritty.
The Dobinson shock dropped right in. It had all the required bushing washers for an OE fit and no washers were required for the lower shock eye. It is a complete bolt on modification.
Compared to the 5125, the G59-685 is a little over 0.5" longer, which is a nice pad for LC100 OME rear coil spring users.
Full Dobinson rear end:
While the 5125s rode like a caddy, it didn't last long w/ the weight of the bumper. 1 hour of highway driving and the shock fades to the point where accelerating will induce understeer when the rear end squats. Similarly, braking induces oversteer making long drives and stop and go a squirrelly experience.
With the Dobinsons under the same condition, there is no fade and all wheels are firmly planted even around corners. Steering control is more controlled. It is stiffer compared to the 5125, but comfortable.
Definitely the right choice for my application.
GOAL:
Get the ride under control.
PURPOSE:
Having verified the the shock dims and a better feel for the valving requirements, it was time for the real deal. Considering my rig's carry weight, I opted to go with the LC80 shock. Seemed like a good idea and more cost effective than a custom shock. Not to mention you get a 2.5" smooth body shock cheaper than comprable Icons or Kings.
MATERIALS:
Dobinson Shock G59-685
DURATION: 1 hour
COST: $200
HOW-TO:
Not going to go into the nitty gritty.
The Dobinson shock dropped right in. It had all the required bushing washers for an OE fit and no washers were required for the lower shock eye. It is a complete bolt on modification.
Compared to the 5125, the G59-685 is a little over 0.5" longer, which is a nice pad for LC100 OME rear coil spring users.
Full Dobinson rear end:
While the 5125s rode like a caddy, it didn't last long w/ the weight of the bumper. 1 hour of highway driving and the shock fades to the point where accelerating will induce understeer when the rear end squats. Similarly, braking induces oversteer making long drives and stop and go a squirrelly experience.
With the Dobinsons under the same condition, there is no fade and all wheels are firmly planted even around corners. Steering control is more controlled. It is stiffer compared to the 5125, but comfortable.
Definitely the right choice for my application.
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Sal, when I typed in the shock part number, I came up with nothing. I clicked their PDF for the G559-685 and saw the heavy duty twin tube gas shock. Did you order them directly from Dobinson or from a retailer? Last bit of kit before I put on my 5100's and 2662's are my rear shocks. Are your 5100's beat or they just didn't like the weight of the rear end with the bumper and such? Looking to spring for the last bits here before my tires wear out. Similarly how do you like your STT's? Saw some Pirelli's MT Scorpions for by far the cheapest out there. Not much info there however.
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Hey dstgean this is what you are looking for GS59-G85 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXAZ1HN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Currently not available, which is not surprising. That's why it's not showing up on Amazon.
There's an organized group buy on the Sequoia off-road Facebook group going on at that moment.
A few people have participated already.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/1517237998306158?view=permalink&id=2092790390750913
My 5100s were completely spent. I could compress the shock with one hand in a kneeling position. It didn't like the weight, for sure. The only thing stopping an underdamped condition was the fact that the shock was too short and limiting spring rebound.
I love the STT Pros. I have no basis of MT comparison since this is my first MT, but considering that I'm on track to get 49k out of these tires speaks volumes. It's more than what I've gotten out of KOs or KO2s.
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REPAIR: Remove and Replace Steering Rack
TROUBLESHOOTING:
Other than a leaking guide bushing, the rack was, otherwise, functional. The rack has been leaking for years and it was a super duper slow leak.
Having refreshed the diffs, the rear, and the transmission, it got on my nerves (finally) that this little shit was leaky. Not to mention it was making a mess of my undercarriage.
So, it was time to address this issue.
MATERIALS:
Napa Auto re-manufactured steering rack
1 quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid
Total Chaos polyurethane steering bushing kit
DURATION: 4 hours
COST: $380
REPAIR:
There's an abundance of YouTube videos on this repair. Can't really remember which one I used, but basically:
About 42k miles ago, I swapped out the crappy rubber bushings with Energy Suspension bushings (pictured black above) and it worked better than OEM for sure.
On this go around, I was advised to use the Total Chaos bushing kit (pictured red above) as it was stiffer compared to the ES set.
Comparing the two, the TC bushings were undeniably stiffer/more rigid than the ES set. The ES set felt like a step above a rubber bushing.
After re-installation and eye-balling my alignment, steering response was dramatically tighter and more responsive. I definitely feel more connected to the road. The drawback is that there is more steering input feedback from the tires. You can feel hints of bumpsteer resulting from road imperfections.
INSTALLATION NOTES:
Because my aftermarket power steering cooler is mounted slightly higher than the reservoir, i had to dismount the cooler and temporarily position it below the reservoir to completely bleed the air out of the lines when refilling the system.
MISCELLANEOUS NOTES:
<~42k miles ago, I installed some Moog inner and outer tierods. When I pulled the rack out and inspected the tierods, they were done. All joints were limp and worn out.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
Other than a leaking guide bushing, the rack was, otherwise, functional. The rack has been leaking for years and it was a super duper slow leak.
Having refreshed the diffs, the rear, and the transmission, it got on my nerves (finally) that this little shit was leaky. Not to mention it was making a mess of my undercarriage.
So, it was time to address this issue.
MATERIALS:
Napa Auto re-manufactured steering rack
1 quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid
Total Chaos polyurethane steering bushing kit
DURATION: 4 hours
COST: $380
REPAIR:
There's an abundance of YouTube videos on this repair. Can't really remember which one I used, but basically:
- Jack up front and remove front tires
- Disconnect outer tie rod from lower ball joint
- Loosen steering shaft coupler bolt
- Remove steering rack bolts
- Disconnect hydro feed/return lines from rack
- Disconnect hydro feed/return support bracket from rack
- Disconnect steering shaft from rack
- Remove steering rack
About 42k miles ago, I swapped out the crappy rubber bushings with Energy Suspension bushings (pictured black above) and it worked better than OEM for sure.
On this go around, I was advised to use the Total Chaos bushing kit (pictured red above) as it was stiffer compared to the ES set.
Comparing the two, the TC bushings were undeniably stiffer/more rigid than the ES set. The ES set felt like a step above a rubber bushing.
After re-installation and eye-balling my alignment, steering response was dramatically tighter and more responsive. I definitely feel more connected to the road. The drawback is that there is more steering input feedback from the tires. You can feel hints of bumpsteer resulting from road imperfections.
INSTALLATION NOTES:
Because my aftermarket power steering cooler is mounted slightly higher than the reservoir, i had to dismount the cooler and temporarily position it below the reservoir to completely bleed the air out of the lines when refilling the system.
MISCELLANEOUS NOTES:
<~42k miles ago, I installed some Moog inner and outer tierods. When I pulled the rack out and inspected the tierods, they were done. All joints were limp and worn out.
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MODIFICATION: Solo Motorsports Mid-Travel Kit, SPC Cams, ICON ET Coilovers, Limit Straps
GOAL:
Improve the IFS system and make it more resistant to key suspension and steering failure.
PURPOSE:
If you hang around the various first gen Sequoia/Tundra/Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner forums long enough, you find that the IFS-related components can be pretty scary when the fail. Notice I say "when."
Basically, maintenance is required for components like the lower ball joint, upper ball joint, inner and outer tierods. One cannot afford to ignore these key components.
If any one of the above components fail, you completely lose steering and suspension control. Imagine losing your front suspension or steering while driving 65mph on a highway.
Because this is a single failure prone system, adding some redundancy and strength will go a long ways towards improving reliability.
Having addressed the drivetrain, transmission, steering, differentials and transfer case, the front suspension needed some love.
MATERIALS:
Solo Motorsports (SM) custom fabricated spindles
SM lower uniball joint conversion
SM double shear heim steering conversion
SPC alignment cams PN:25445
OEM lower control arms
Pyrotect 6" limit straps with clevis hardware
Icon Extended Travel coilover suspension w/ 700lb springs
DURATION: 8 hours
COST: $3800
HOW-TO:
There's an abundance of YouTube video for replacing the spindles, removing the lower control arms, removing the lower ball joint, etc. I won't go into the details here since there's a lot to cover. I will, however, add my notes and observations on how my installation differed from the what you will find on the net.
Before tearing into the system, preparation is key. Last thing you want is to be dead in the water because of an oops. Because I run a fairly "tucked" wheel spec, I needed to check clearances between the tire and spindle. If I needed spacers, I wanted to know beforehand so I can have it in-hand, in advance.
To do that, I laid my spare face down, placed a rotor in the wheel, and then set the spindle to mock up an installation.
All clear. Time to get to work.
Here is my order of operation after vehicle is on jack stands and front wheels removed:
Considering I'm tearing down the whole front suspension, I opted to install new alignment cams and new lower control arms. The new lower control arms were a must because 1) my bushings are shot and 2) the control arm lower ball joint mount needed to be modified to accept the uniball, which I explain in detail later.
First, the SPC alignment cams. OEM vs. SPC.
The SPC cams uses a delrin sleeve, as opposed to a metal one. Metal sleeves cause a lot of headaches when it seizes due to age, wear, and tear. Sometimes, they had to be cut out. Luckily for me, mine popped right out. Because I was replacing the inner and outer tierods with SM units, I did not have to move the steering rack out of the way to slide out the OEM cams or install the SPC cams. Without the tierods installed, there is no reason to move the steering rack.
After the removal of the OEM cam, I found the the sleeve length was not the "right" length. Both sleeves are the same length, while the cam kit had a long and short cam bolt.
Front sleeve is short:
Rear sleeve was too long so I cut it to fit.
It fits.
I still installed it. Hopefully, it does not pose a problem in the long run.
UPDATE:
Since the install, I have been dealing with some white-knuckle squirrelly steering, tracking, and stability issues. The car was not driveable above 40mph.
After a painful process of elimination, I traced it to the SPC alignment cams.
SPC vs OEM Cam Bolt Diameter:
The SPC cams are thinner by 1/4" compared to OEM.
While the included Delrin sleeve makes up that difference inside the control arm bushing, the difference in diameter results in added play in the control arm under load where it mounts to the frame. This added play causes the control arm to shift while on the road and results in my suspension losing its alignment settings.
Fresh wear marks on the cam side and in the bushing side corroborated my theory.
Re-installing the OEM cams resolved the unstable steering issues completely.
GOAL:
Improve the IFS system and make it more resistant to key suspension and steering failure.
PURPOSE:
If you hang around the various first gen Sequoia/Tundra/Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner forums long enough, you find that the IFS-related components can be pretty scary when the fail. Notice I say "when."
Basically, maintenance is required for components like the lower ball joint, upper ball joint, inner and outer tierods. One cannot afford to ignore these key components.
If any one of the above components fail, you completely lose steering and suspension control. Imagine losing your front suspension or steering while driving 65mph on a highway.
Because this is a single failure prone system, adding some redundancy and strength will go a long ways towards improving reliability.
Having addressed the drivetrain, transmission, steering, differentials and transfer case, the front suspension needed some love.
MATERIALS:
Solo Motorsports (SM) custom fabricated spindles
SM lower uniball joint conversion
SM double shear heim steering conversion
SPC alignment cams PN:25445
OEM lower control arms
Pyrotect 6" limit straps with clevis hardware
Icon Extended Travel coilover suspension w/ 700lb springs
DURATION: 8 hours
COST: $3800
HOW-TO:
There's an abundance of YouTube video for replacing the spindles, removing the lower control arms, removing the lower ball joint, etc. I won't go into the details here since there's a lot to cover. I will, however, add my notes and observations on how my installation differed from the what you will find on the net.
Before tearing into the system, preparation is key. Last thing you want is to be dead in the water because of an oops. Because I run a fairly "tucked" wheel spec, I needed to check clearances between the tire and spindle. If I needed spacers, I wanted to know beforehand so I can have it in-hand, in advance.
To do that, I laid my spare face down, placed a rotor in the wheel, and then set the spindle to mock up an installation.
All clear. Time to get to work.
Here is my order of operation after vehicle is on jack stands and front wheels removed:
- Pop off axle nut cover, remove axle nut
- Remove brake caliper from spindle and all associated hardware and lines
- Disconnect ABS sensor (there's a connector at the frame)
- Unbolt (qty. 4) lower ball joint from spindle
- Unbolt upper ball joint
- Remove spindle with ABS sensor still installed
- Unbolt outer tierod from lower ball joint
- Remove inner + out tierod assembly together
- Remove alignment cams
- Remove lower control arm
Considering I'm tearing down the whole front suspension, I opted to install new alignment cams and new lower control arms. The new lower control arms were a must because 1) my bushings are shot and 2) the control arm lower ball joint mount needed to be modified to accept the uniball, which I explain in detail later.
First, the SPC alignment cams. OEM vs. SPC.
The SPC cams uses a delrin sleeve, as opposed to a metal one. Metal sleeves cause a lot of headaches when it seizes due to age, wear, and tear. Sometimes, they had to be cut out. Luckily for me, mine popped right out. Because I was replacing the inner and outer tierods with SM units, I did not have to move the steering rack out of the way to slide out the OEM cams or install the SPC cams. Without the tierods installed, there is no reason to move the steering rack.
After the removal of the OEM cam, I found the the sleeve length was not the "right" length. Both sleeves are the same length, while the cam kit had a long and short cam bolt.
Front sleeve is short:
Rear sleeve was too long so I cut it to fit.
It fits.
I still installed it. Hopefully, it does not pose a problem in the long run.
UPDATE:
Since the install, I have been dealing with some white-knuckle squirrelly steering, tracking, and stability issues. The car was not driveable above 40mph.
After a painful process of elimination, I traced it to the SPC alignment cams.
SPC vs OEM Cam Bolt Diameter:
The SPC cams are thinner by 1/4" compared to OEM.
While the included Delrin sleeve makes up that difference inside the control arm bushing, the difference in diameter results in added play in the control arm under load where it mounts to the frame. This added play causes the control arm to shift while on the road and results in my suspension losing its alignment settings.
Fresh wear marks on the cam side and in the bushing side corroborated my theory.
Re-installing the OEM cams resolved the unstable steering issues completely.
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